Airwaves

Model Airplane News, Dec 2001

INSIDE A CUB

I'm building a Sig Mfg. 1/4-scale J-3 Cub, and I want to detail the cockpit-or at least dress it up a bit. I'd appreciate any help or suggestions about where to find some pictures of it. Thank you. [email]

STEVE A. THOMAS

Steve, the last time I looked at it, Sig Mfg.'s catalog offered a photo pack for the Piper J-3 Cub; call them at (800) 247-5008, or check www.sigm fg.com. Also, Bob Banka at Aircraft Documentation has several photo packs available for the venerable J-3 Cub. You can reach Bob at (714) 979-8085.

Another avenue is to search the Internet for sites that have pictures of Piper Cubs. Several full-size aircraft organizations have a Web presence, and it just takes a little surfing to find what you're looking for. If you want to build your own panel, a good supply of scale Piper Cub instruments can be obtained from Jerry Nelson of Nelson Aircraft Specialties, (503) 629-5277; www.nelsonhobby.com. Have fun detailing your Cub.

GY

FINDING FUN-FLY PLANES

This is the second season that I've been involved with model airplanes. My second plane was a Great Planes G-202, and I want something more responsive that can hover. In the October 2001 issue of Model Airplane News, I saw a picture of two airplanes hovering in Don Edberg's "Effective Programming" column. What type of planes were they? I really like the idea of less expensive models, rather than having to spend thousands on a 40-plus-pounds, 3D-style model. I really enjoy reading Don's column; I've found it to be very helpful and informative. Keep up the good work! [email]

PIPERCUB

The "stick-and-boom" models in that photograph are typical of competition fun-fly airplanes of the mid-'90s. Several manufacturers have introduced a new generation of models that have a minimal fuselage cross-section and a thick airfoil. Some we've seen recently include the Balsacraft Limbo Dancer from Great Planes (www.greatplanes.com), the Horizon Hobby Inc. Pizazz ARF (www.horizonhobby.com) and the Model Tech Magic from Global Hobby Distributors (www.globalhobby.com). For more information on competition fun-fly events, check out the National Competition Fun Fly Association website at www.nc ffa fun fly.com.

DS

ENGINE BEARING REPAIR

I have a three-year-old Moki 1.8. It starts very easily, runs very reliably and has plenty of power. The other day, however, the engine suddenly and abruptly stopped in mid-flight. The front bearing had failed, and a small piece of steel from it had lodged at the very front of the crankcase housing, between the housing and the crankshaft. This caused only very minor damage to the aluminum crankcase housing just behind the front bearing. I used some 600-grit sandpaper and a mild detergent/water mixture for lubrication on the inside of the housing where the minor damage occurred, and it is like new. The crankshaft itself sustained no damage at all. The larger rear bearing seems fine, but I figured as long as I had the front part of the crankcase unbolted from the back part of the engine, I would change out both bearings. (I had acquired replacement bearings from a local supplier.) However, the bearing supplier did not have "openface" (if this is even the correct term) bearings like the ones that were originally installed in the engine by the manufacturer; the ones I used are sealed. The two sealed bearings are of very good quality. My question is, is it better or worse to use sealed bearings rather than the original, "open-face"-type bearings, or does it make any difference at all? [email]

D. GIBBS

The seals won't hurt anything, so you can install them as is; the grease will simply wash out during engine operation. If you don't like the slight frictional drag produced by the seals, simply remove them. Pry them from their seats with a tiny (jeweler's) slot-- type screwdriver or a hobby knife (use a no. 11 blade). Be careful not to touch-and possibly damage-the ball bearings in the process; not likely, since you'll be careful! The grease can then be washed out with solvent. I like lacquer thinner, since it doesn't attract rust-producing water from the air (hygroscopic action, as with alcohol-based solvents). Allow the bearings to dry naturally (don't use compressed air to hasten drying because dirt in the airstream can contaminate the bearing assembly). Lubricate with Marvel Mystery Oil and install the sealed bearings in your Moki.

DAVE GIERKE

DECAL DILEMMA

Can you give me the phone number and email address of someone who makes decals? Thanks. [email]

RALPH ENGLERT

The most popular water-slide and vinyl stickon decal manufacturer around is Major Decals, (800) 557-5617; www.majordecals.com. Hundreds of decal sets for all types of models and in every size are available. If you'd like custom-made vinyl stick-on decals, contact the folks at Model Graphics, (337) 269-5177; www.model-graphics.com. Aeroloft Designs and Pro-Mark offer dry-transfer graphics; you can reach them at (602) 649-8662; www.aeroloft.com, and (618) 524-2440; www.pro-mark.com, respectively. Give these guys a call; we're sure you'll find exactly what you're looking for.