GREAT PLANES COMBAT CORSAIR & COMBAT MUSTANG

Model Airplane News, Jan 2006 by Reid, Robert

Friendly fire!

Combat flying has been around for a while, and I have watched my friends participate in combat events. They've tried to get me involved, but if I'm going to fly combat, I want to fly a plane that looks like a real fighter! Along came the Great Planes Combat Mustang and Combat Corsair. Both meet the size and scale requirements to compete in AMA event 750, class 2610 combat competition. This was a perfect opportunity for me not only to build two of my favorite scale planes but also to try out combat competition.

KIT FEATURES

Both planes are constructed of laser-cut balsa and plywood, so they're solid and light. They're covered in MonoKote and include a high-quality fiberglass cowl and a nice plastic canopy along with a complete hardware package. The Mustang's belly pan is made of fiberglass; the Corsair has a similar piece made of balsa. There is also a set of decals and a 20-page manual with numerous photos and well-written text documenting every step of construction.

CONSTRUCTION

As with all planes that are covered with heat-shrink materials, I had to remove the usual wrinkles. After I had run over all the surfaces with an iron, my planes were ready for assembly.

Wing. I started construction by hinging the ailerons to the wing halves using the CA hinges provided. Next, I glued the two Scinch plywood wing joiners together and; then, using 30-minute epoxy, I inserted

For the Mustang, I installed one aileron servo that operates the two strip ailerons. The Corsair required two aileron servos-one for each aileron-and they are installed under the wing. They fit into a recessed servo cutout so that only the servo arm is above the wing's surface. Some servos will sit too low in this cutout and will require an 1/8-inch spacer to bring them up so that they clear the wing's surface. Be careful not to mount the servo too high because the Corsair lands on its belly, and if the servos sit too high in the cutout, they will hit the ground first.

Fin and stabilizer. I removed the covering over the slots in the fuselage for the fin and stabilizer. I then inserted the stabilizer into its slot, centered it on the fuselage and marked the area where I would remove the covering. After removing the covering to expose the bare wood, I reinserted the stabilizer with glue, re-centered it and let the glue dry. I did the same thing with the fin. There is nothing really complicated here; the main thing is to keep everything aligned and straight. I installed the elevator servo inside the fuselage, attached the control horn to the elevator and connected them with a pushrod.

The engine. The manufacturer gives instructions on how to mount the engine. I tackglued an O.S. .25 FX engine for the Mustang and an O.S. .25 LA for the Corsair to the engine mounts at the proper distance from the firewalls. Using the engine-mounting holes as a guide, I drilled pilot holes and screwed in the self-tapping mounting screws that secure the engine to the mounts. Now I can center the entire unit on the lineup marks on the firewall and then mark and drill the mounting holes. I inserted the blind nuts through the rear of the firewall and drew them up tightly to the mounting bolts. After mounting the engine, I drilled a hole for the throttle-pushrod guide tube and then hooked up the throttle servo.

I installed the provided fuel tank and routed the fuel lines to their appropriate locations. On the Corsair. I installed a third fuel line for filling, and on the Mustang, I added a Du-Bro Kwik-Fill fueling valve. Then, I had only to make the cutouts on the cowl for the muffler and the needle valve, slide the cowl into place and secure it with four screws.

Radio gear and final assembly. I installed the receiver, battery and switch where they best balanced the plane. Because these planes will see combat, I wrapped the receivers and batteries in extra foam. Even though I tried to establish the correct placement of the flight-pack equipment to balance the planes, I still had to add 2 ounces of nose weight to the Corsair and 1 ounce of tail weight to the Mustang. Once I had the planes balanced, I set all the control throws to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Because I fly from a dirt flying Held, I had to devise some sort of landing skids for the planes. On the Corsair's gull-wing, I used small pieces of 2-mil chloroplast on each low point to protect it. The Mustang required a little more thought; I ended up using a few layers of clear packing tape on the wing air scoop and a bent wire protruding below the engine to protect it. Both methods seem to work well, but the skids will have to be replaced after a few landings.

WRAP-UP

The Great Planes Combat Mustang and Combat Corsair are very easy to assemble, and each could easily be completed in a couple of evenings. The quality and performance of these kits is a tribute to Great Planes' attention to detail and design. If you are interested in combat flying, either of these planes offers an excellent place to start. With their great flight characteristics and quick assembly, there is no doubt that you could be flying in your next local combat event. Believe me, once you start flying combat, you will find it very hard to quit; it's just too much fun! Just remember to check your six!