How to: Build any kit better--over 20 tips to get the job done right

Radio Control Car Action, Dec 2001 by Vieira, Peter

TO

Over 20 tips

to get the job done right

The best way to get good at kit building is to build a bunch of kits; too bad most of us only get to do it once or twice a year! Instead of waiting a decade (or getting a job in a hobby shop at Christmastime) to build up a base of building experience, just follow these tips for an enjoyable escape from the real world with your best build ever.

Check the instructions before you begin

Even a quick read of the manual will help you become familiar with the building process; if you study it more carefully, you can head off potential problems before you have to tear down improperly assembled parts. As you read the manual, look for steps that might be easy to goof up, and make notes where you think they might help. I watch out for:

* Shock-tower assembly. The long screws that hold the shocks and the ball studs for the camber links may be on the same side of the tower or on opposite sides. If I don't pay attention, I usually go wrong here. I have even been known to build it wrong, take it apart to fix It and then goof up a second time!

* Screw length, type and locations. Note steps that require you to use screws of the same length; If your kit includes full-size drawings of the hardware, carefully consult them. Also be sure to follow the dotted line that shows where the screw is meant to go; a screw might look as if it's lining up with one hole but the dotted line leads it to another.

* Lefts and rights; fronts and mars. This is a particular blggie for steering assemblies and hub carriers. Pay particular attention to the stamped-in "R" and "L" that Indicate "left" and "right," and see to it that your subassemblies match the illustrations shown In the manual.

Set up a well-lit,

clutter-free building area

* Use a pit towel. If you don't have an old towel to sacrifice for RC, just pick up any cheap towel at a department store (or get a snazzy one like the Hudy model in these pictures). The towel will prevent parts from bouncing and rolling, it will protect your bench (or the kitchen table), and It will absorb any liquid you spill.

* Parts and hardware trays. Keep these handy. Bolink sells a tray that's perfect for small parts, or you can use take-out container lids, fishing-tackle boxes, muffin tins, or other similar containers to keep parts organized. As I build, I like to dump the contents of each parts bag into their own container.

* Light. Make sure you have plenty of it. Ott Lite's portable lamp is Ideal for shedding extra photons on your work, and when you've finished, folds for storage.

Measure with a caliper

I have a deluxe digital caliper, but even an inexpensive plastic model is ideal for RC use. A caliper will allow you to build camber links and shocks to the precise lengths given in the manual far more accurately than a ruler will, and you'll find many other uses for it as well.

Get the right tools

I've never regretted investing in high-quality tools; as the saying goes, "If you buy cheap, you buy twice." Don't skimp on the basics.

* Hex drivers. Thorp (from MIP), Hudy and Trinity make some of the best, and RPM drivers are my favorites for value and performance.

* Screwdrivers. With nos. I and 2 Phillips-head drivers, a 1/4-inch flat-blade screwdriver and a set of jeweler's screwdrivers, you'll be ready to tackle any job. DuraTrax also offers excellent screwdrivers that have padded handles and coated tips.

* Pliers. A pair of slip-joint and needle-nose pliers will cope with most jobs; those who run nitro models will find a pair of channel-lock pliers useful for holding flywheels.

* Flush cutters. A good-quality pair of flush cutters makes short work of removing parts from their trees without leaving excess material on the part. They're also good for cutting fuel line and silicone wire. Tamiya and Hobbico make the best.

* Hobby knife with no. 11 blades. Here, quantity is more important than quality. I've never encountered a bad blade, but all blades should be replaced often. X-Acto is the big-name brand, and Excel also offers a wide line.

"Assembly line"

identical assemblies

Shocks are the prime candidate for "assembly lining," but the technique is good for any steps that have to be repeated. The idea is that you should prepare and sort all the parts required for identical assemblies so that you'll be able to build them more quickly. This technique will also help you avoid such annoyances as finding you have a shock body full of oil, but you no longer have two hands free to cut the shock cap off the parts tree.

Grip shock shafts without scoring them

Everyone knows you can wrap a rag around the shock shaft so your pliers won't score it, but the rag also prevents the pliers from gripping well. Here's an easier way: use the pliers' cutting jaws to hold the shock shaft where the threads meet the smooth part of the shaft. If you still have a hard time because of a tightly fitting shock eyelet, hold the eyelet with your pliers and pre-thread it with a screw. It should be much easier to install when it has threads.