how to 10 nitro tips

Radio Control Car Action, Apr 2004

Nitro know-how

Who doesn't love a good tip-or better yet-10 great ones? Since most of the questions we get are about nitro power, and fuel-burning machines account for most of the latest vehicle releases and continue to grow in popularity, we thought it was high time for a collection of classic nitro tips. Go ahead, use 'em all and make people think you actually know what you're doing!

1

FILL TART FUEL BOTTLE RIGHT!

We're constantly amazed by how many otherwise intelligent RC guys fill their fuel bottles by pulling out the filler neck and dumping fuel in through the open top. It's messy, it's a pain, and it wears the seal between the filler neck and the bottle. Real nitro guys squeeze the bottle, dip the filler neck into the fuel and then release the bottle so it sucks the fuel up into the neck and into the bottle. No funnel required.

2

YOU CAN'T BEAT HEAT

If your engine is hard to start because the piston is super tight at top dead center, reach for a heat gun. This handy heater-upper may look like a hair dryer, but it's far more powerful. Aim it at your engine until the case is good and warm, and you should be able to fire it up much more easily because the internal parts will have warmed up to a temperature that's closer to their operating-temperature specs.

3

GET A HANDLE ON IT

Ow! Ever given yourself the body-clip-under-the-fingernail torture as you tried to pry off heavy-duty 1/8-scale body clips? Show your tender digits some mercy by putting little grab handles on there. A zip-tie loop will do, but that looks totally weak. Instead, use two zip-ties and a piece of fuel tubing-color-coordinated to match your paint job, of course.

4

BAG IT

Stop neglecting your air filter. That, in and of itself, is a mighty good tip. But here's the real tip: use a Ziploc bag to lube the filters and store them. Put a crollap of filter goo in the bag and use it to Saturate the filters, without getting your fingers all sticky. Leave your Spare filters in there so they'll be ready to go when you need 'em, protected all the while from toolbox debris. Go for the thick freezer style bags; they last longer.

5

WD-40 IS YOUR FRIEND ...

... of course, you already know that since all guys are genetically programmed to appreciate duct tape, superglue and good of WD. But did you know it can keep your car clean? 'Tis true. When your car is completely clean, hose it down with WD-40. You can use a compressor to blow off the excess, or just let it drip dry. Your car's plastic parts wijl once again have that "fresh from the polybag" gloss, and dirt and mud will have a much harder time clinging during your next run. Plus, all the hinge pins and pivot balls will be tubed and ready for action!

6

LUBE 'EM OR LOSE 'EM?

Clutch bearings spin very fast and are subjected to heavy loads, yet they're the smallest bearings in your nitro machine. If you don't treat them right, they'll detonate and cause your engine to stall when you hit the brakes. For maximum clutch-bearing life, clean and lube the bearings after each day of use. If you race, lubing the bearings after every heat isn't too much.

7

THE BIG SQUEEZE

As your gallon juice empties, give it a squeeze before you cap it off. The less air you trap with the fuel, the better. And while you're at it, don't forget to install the neck plug under the cap. You threw the plug away? Well, don't do that next time. But for now, put a piece of plastic wrap over the neck of the jug, and then screw the cap over it.

8

GLOUW PLUGS: RINSE BEFORE REMOVAL

An open glow-plughole is a disaster waiting to happen. If you get dirt and crud in there, your piston and sleeve are toast. And what collects around the glow plug in capious amounts? You got it-dirt and crud. Before you remove the glow plug, splash the area around the glow plug with fuel to rinse away any junk you don't want to enter the engine.

9

MAKE SURE THE FUEL SYSTEM IS REALLY EMPTY.

The oily residue left behind when fuel evaporates isn't good for anything except clogging filters and fouling carbs. To get every drop of fuel out of the fuel system, run the tank dry or dump the fuel out through the cap. Remove the fuel line and blow out any droplets that are left in it. If you dumped the fuel out through the tank's cap, fire up the engine, and then burn off any fuel left in the carb.

10

POST-RUN DRIP JOB

Hopefully, you already know to drip some after-run oil into your engine's glow-plug hole when you've finished running for the day to keep the piston and sleeve happy (you can use RC-specific stuff or good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil). But what about the crankshaft? A drop or two in the carburetor opening wilt lube the shaft, prevent corrosion and extend engine-life.