Service slants

Motor,  May 2003  by Savasta, Bob

• E-mail
• Print
• Link

Ford advises that once you repair the wiring, installing a piece of plastic sheathing from a fuel pump sheathing service kit (Part No. F8PZ-9A213-BA) should help prevent a reoccurrence of the problem. The carmaker also recommends installing the sheathing anytime you service a pump or fuel level sender that doesn't already have the wrap in place.

To install the sheathing, start by removing the tie straps at the fuel pump harness, then disconnect the pump connector and sender ground. Next, select a piece of sheathing of the proper length (7 1/2 inches should do for most applications) and position it over the pump wires and sender ground wire. If possible, put the sender's positive wire inside the sheathing, as well. If an inline connector prevents you from doing this, simply route the wire against the outside of the sheathing and secure it with electrical tape. To finish off the repair, secure the wire bundle with two tie straps placed 1 inch from each end of the sheathing, then tighten the ties securely to prevent movement.

Chrysler

Leak misdiagnosis. Chrysler warns to be extra careful when trying to diagnose an oil leak on 1995-99 Cirrus, Stratus, Breeze or Neon models or 1996-99 minivans with the 2.0 or 2.4L engine. What seems like a head gasket leak on these applications could, in reality, be seepage from the cam sensor seal. Apparently, the seal is the Achilles' heel on these engines, because Chrysler recommends replacing it whenever doing a head gasket job to prevent subsequent leakage or seepage problems.

Nissan

Engine rattle. Some 1997-99 3.0L-equipped Maximas built before 12/12/99 may give off a rattling noise from the engine's front cover. The noise usually lasts for several seconds after startup following a long, cold soak and may not be duplicated on subsequent starts or during normal engine operation. According to Nissan, the likely cause of the ruckus is oil leakage from the lower (primary) timing chain tensioner, between the tensioner body and rear cover. Installing a new-design tensioner gasket (Part No. 1307931U00) should restore some peace and quiet to the venerable V6.

Before installing the new gasket, however, first verify that the noise is indeed coming from the front cover area under the conditions described. If it is, drain the oil and remove the primary tensioner's inspection cover, followed by the tensioner itself. Next, remove the oil filter and cover the tensioner's oil feed hole with a shop rag or paper towel to catch debris. Clear the feed passage by applying shop air directly to the oil filter mounting stud. Continue until a steady stream of air flows from the feed hole. If it doesn't, manually clean the passage.

Once you're satisfied that the passageway is clear of sludge, install the new tensioner gasket, followed by the primary tensioner. Apply a thin bead of RTV to the inspection cover and install the cover, torquing its mounting bolts to 100 in.-lb. Install a new oil filter, fill the crankcase, then start the engine and let it idle for a while to remove trapped air from the lube system. To complete the repair, shut the engine down, let it cool overnight, then retest for the noise in the morning. In the unlikely event the rattle returns, start tackling the upper (secondary) chain tensioners.