Service Slants

Motor, Sep 2004 by Savasta, Bob

Ford

Shifter woes. Owners of some 2003 Mustangs may complain that the gearshift lever won't go into Park, or that it won't come out of the Park detent once engaged. They may also comment that the shift lever release button seems loose and/or that the Overdrive switch on the shifter knob is no longer functioning. On investigation, you may find that the Overdrive cancel fuse has blown.

Ford says that all these maladies could be the result of a mispositioned shift lever knob combined with the effects of a defective shift release button, spring and Overdrive switch. Repositioning the knob on the shift lever and installing a new-design button (Part No. F7ZZ-7C48S-AA), spring (Part No. F4LZ-7C331-AA) and Overdrive switch (Part No. YR3Z7G550-AA) should fix the problems. Here's how to go about the iix:

Start things off by removing the shift console top panel for a clear shot at the Alien screw that retains the shifter knob to the lever. Remove the screw from the knob. Next, slide the shift lever cover downward and cut the two wires of the Overdrive switch as close as possible to the base of the knob. Using a twisting motion, pull upward and remove the shift knob from the lever. At this point, the shift lever should shift smoothly into kind out of Park when you depress the tip of the shift rod.

Using the illustration shown here as a reference, grab a ruler and measure 1% in. down from the top of the shift lever. Put a paint mark here; you'll use it as a guide to install the shift knob to the proper depth on the lever. Now install the new-design release button and spring into the knob. Align the flat on the shift lever with the Alien screw hole in the shift knob, then push downward and install the knob onto the lever, making sure its base is flush with the paint mark.

Now it's time to install the new Overdrive switch. Begin by cutting its two wires approximately 3 in. from the base of the switch. Form an arc for the wires, then feed them through the hole for the switch at the base of the shift knob. Push the Overdrive switch in until it snaps into place on the knob. Now solder the two wires to the harness, using heat-shrink tubing to protect the splices. Tuck the wires under the shift lever cover. To complete the repair, install and tighten the Alien screw, slide the shift lever cover up, reinstall the shift console top panel and check for proper gearshift lever operation.

GM

Engine noise. Some 2000-01 Buick Century, Chevy Lumina and Malibu and Pontiac Grand Prix models with the 3.1L (VIN J) V6 may produce a ticking sound on cold startup. According to GM, the noise typically begins 10 to 15 seconds after the engine roars to life, lasts for one to two minutes, then gradually fades away as normal operating temperature is approached. Although you might be thinking lifter problems here, excess piston-to-bore clearance in cylinders 1 through 4 is a much more likely cause. GM says the condition is "a customer annoyance issue, and does not affect the durability or life of the engine."

If your customer doesn't quite see it that way, know that new-design, polymer-coated pistons are now available to quiet the ruckus. The new pistons are identical to those already used in cylinders 5 and 6 of the little V6. As for the particular part numbers of the new "cans," no need to jot them down. The coated pistons are the only replacements currently available in GMs parts lineup for cylinders 1 through 4.

Chrysler

Poor a/c performance. Some 2004 Town & Country, Caravan and Voyager minivans (build date prior to 10/3/03) with the 2.4L Four may suiter from poor or inadequate a/c performance. Chrysler says the problem is most noticeable in high ambient temperatures (above 90°F), and is due to the a/c compressor cycling too frequently once the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Although Chrysler doesn't say why that's a problem, you can bet that evaporator freeze-up has something to do with it. Reflashing the PCM with some new software files via the DRB III scanner should help eliminate the a/c snafu in short order.

You'll find the software update on TechCONNECT, with availability having commenced on 12/15/03. Make a note of that for future reference. Once the reprogramming job is completed, make sure an Authorized Modification Label is filled out and affixed to the PCM.

Dodge Truck

Popping sound from front end. Some 1991-96 Dakotas can give off a loud popping noise that emanates from the right front portion of the vehicle. According to Dodge, the most likely cause of the noise is a crack in the inside portion of the right frame rail. You'll most likely find the fissure between the lower control arm mounts, just behind the coil spring pocket.

Installing two reinforcement plates available in a new repair kit (Fart No. 05017446AA) should help span the crack in the rail and eliminate the noise. The plates can either be welded into the rail or installed via adhesive. Figure about 4 to 4.5 hours labor for the former, .5 to .8 hour for the latter. Installation instructions for both methods are included in the kit.