Power surge racing products Villain S1

Radio Control Boat Modeler, Jun 2003 by Dunlap, Jerry

Attaching and shaping the front and rear hardwood blocks complete the assembly of the center section. When you position the front block, be sure to leave a 1/16-inch overhang on each side of the center section. These protrusions key into the side formers to ensure proper alignment of the center section and the sponsons. Use a sanding block to shape the front and rear hardwood blocks to conform to the curve of the center section.

BUILDING THE SPONSONS

A unique technique labeled "Table Off Construction" is used to build the sponsons. A piece of aluminum angle measuring 1x1x48 inches serves as a building jig to hold the sponson sides straight during the framing and sheeting phases. Clamp the aluminum angle to a workbench surface, and clamp the sponson-- side former to the aluminum angle. Before you begin the sponson, apply a thin coat of epoxy to both sides of all the sponson sheeting (I used West System epoxy) to seal it. Then I mixed 1/2 tablespoon of West System 404 Filler into each batch of epoxy to make sanding easier. I find it much easier to apply a sealer like West System to the sheeting before it is attached to the framework. I don't think it's all that important, but I did hollow out the formers, or cross frames, to save a little weight.

I made a slight change in the sequence when I built the sponsons. I marked the positions of the formers on the sponson-side former (or keelson) before I glued the 1/8x1/4-inch keelson spar to the inside of the keelson. It just seemed easier to mark the locations for the formers without the keelson spar. When the keelson spar has been glued, the formers and nose block can be glued to the keelson (I like to use CA for framing). The instructions give a detailed, well-illustrated description of the sponson construction. When the frames have been CA'd to the keelson, glue the 1/8-inch-square stringers to the inside of the keelson to provide additional gluing surface for top and bottom sheeting.

Next, clamp the keelson to the aluminum angle, and glue the remaining stringers to the formers. With the keelson still attached to the aluminum angle, use a sanding block with 60-grit paper on the stringers to shape them to accept the sheeting. The keelson remains clamped to the aluminum angle while you apply the top sheeting. I used thick CA to glue the sheeting to the framework. Mike recommends epoxy, and I recommend the same for anyone who is a first-time wooden-boat builder. When the top sheeting has been attached, the sponson can be removed from the aluminum angle; it will hold its shape.

Next, attach the side sheeting to the sponson. Before you glue it, double-check the angle on the outside stringer to ensure a good fit of the sheeting along the top stringer. When the glue has set, trim the excess sheeting with the sanding block. Proper attachment of the bottom sheeting is critical to the performance of any wooden tunnelhull. On the Villain S1, it is important that the last 11 inches of the bottom sheeting be as flat as possible. To ensure this, I cut the final 11 inches of sheeting to create twopiece sponson sheeting. (I have installed two-piece bottom sheeting on all my tunnelhulls for the last several years.) I glued two pieces of 1/8x1/4-inch scrap material to the back and front side of the "B" frame, 11 inches from the back of the sponson. These scrap pieces provide additional gluing surface for the joint where the two sponson-bottom pieces are glued to the former. I attached the rear sheeting first, followed by the forward section. On completion of one sponson, the next can be built following the same procedure. Just remember to build a right and a left!