Building a C&O standard hemi-bottom steel water tank

As with all-C&O standard structures the more photographs you look at the more you realize that the word 11 standard" was loosely interpreted. Designs were frequently changed to suit local site and needs. Most of these tanks were used in conjunction with a trackside standpipe. Some, however, were equipped with a spout to pour water directly into a tender (which to my eye is incredibly ugly). As always, check photos and/or drawings to model a specific prototype. My model was based on the X-3130 drawing of the steel tank at White Stick on the Piney Creek Subdivision, and a number of photos.

Fig. 1

After gluing the two tank courses together, you need to remove the lower lip. This is what the tank bottom supplied in the kit would be glued to. The lip needs to be trimmed off flush. A pair of rail nippers/flush cutters worked nicely with very little sanding required to make it smooth. An important note, though-do not add the roof until the tank is standing on its legs. Save the extra tank parts as they will fit Tichy's vertical oil/water tank.

Fig. 2

I made the rivet strip spacing template after doing a count of the plates on the prototype tank. After marking the new tank bottom, start gluing on the single rivet strips from the Three Brothers Mfg. sheet. Glue each strip from the bottom to about threefourths the way up on both sides. Leave the center where the strips intersect unglued. The strips in this area will have to be cut out for the standpipe.

Fig. 3

Here the vessel head has been glued onto the tank. At the joint a piece of Three Brothers double rivet strip is being added. (A single rivet strip is shown in the picture. I wasn't happy with its appearance and later installed a double strip.) The double strip is centered on the joint so a bit of trimming of the rivet strips on the dome will be required.

Fig. 4

The standpipe is installed next. After gluing three of the kit pipe pieces together, trim to an overall length of 22 feet, 9 inches.

Next, set the pipe in position and trim the rivet strips away, then glue the pipe in place. I used a large square and my eyeball to make sure that it was plumb. It helps a lot to do this on a table that you can walk around. Set the square behind the pipe and sight along the gap between the pipe and the square. Once you're happy with one side move the square about 120 degrees and repeat. After a couple of laps you should have the pipe properly centered and plumb. Then very carefully-so as not to disturb the pipe-apply a small bit of liquid cement and check the alignment again. After the cement has set more can be added to strengthen the joint and glue the ends of the rivet strips down. The brave-hearted could drill the dome and insert the pipe into it. Some words of caution, however-a drill press with a speed control would be mandatory. In addition, large drill bits for plastic are ground differently than standard bits, to keep them from digging in and catching on the work. Finally, you'd have to support the standpipe at the correct height inside while the cement dried.

Fig. 5

After the center pipe is dry, glue it and the tank to the base. Assemble the legs and footings per the Tichy instructions. Fit a leg to the base and mark where it falls on the tank/rivet strip. The rivet strip must be cut away from the tank where the leg and its angle clip casting to mount to the tank. The bottom of the casting should be in line with the bottom of the rivet strip. Assemble the roof, ladder, and braces per the kit's instructions.

Fig. 6

After painting the tank (I used a warm black/dark gray) start installing the level gauge by gluing it to a piece of styrene. Paint the edges and back before gluing to one of the tank legs. The bottom (28 feet) of the gauge should be even with the bottom of the tank. The level indicator is a piece of scrap plastic cut to shape, painted red, and glued to the gauge.

Drill three holes in the roof, spaced about 18 to 24 inches apart, starting at the eave and in line with the gauge. In the lower two holes, glue an eyebolt. Take a piece of black polyester thread and glue it into the uppermost hole. Run it through the eyebolts down the face of the gauge. I looped mine into the leg bracing, superglued it to the bottom of the gauge, and trimmed off the excess.

Parts List

Tichy steel water tank kit 293-7012 Three Brothers Mfg. rivet sheet 713-4000 Plastruct hemispherical dome (4-inch diameter) 570-95863

Copyright Chesapeake and Ohio Historical Society, Inc. Oct 2002
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