Goodbye to Scampi, Hello to Onotria in Costa Mesa

Orange County Business Journal, Oct 3-Oct 9, 2005 by Chao, Fifi

There are soups and chowders, a wonderful smoked salmon salad with hearts of palm, oysters on the half-shell, prawns, rare tuna, slices of silky and barely smoked salmon and more in one area of the room.

Several seafood entrees have us wondering which one we can handle. On the evening we were there, salmon, halibut, striped bass and swordfish huddled beneath the silver domes.

Desserts are so varied and way beyond the norm, not to menfion so beautifully showcased to break your will.

It's a virtual parade of Death by Chocolate items surrounded by fruit tarts (the tiny lemon pies are exquisite), an ice cream bar where you can build your own extravaganza and even a decidedly RitzCarlton caliber crème brûlée.

Call (949) 240-5008 for reservations for the Friday Evening Seafood Celebration, which is priced at $55 plus tax and tip.

The Ritz-Carlton is at One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Dana Point.

What a Bargain

Is having a full dinner with beverage for $12 a bargain or what? Lunch is even less at 50 Forks restaurant.

The upscale California bistro is operated by the culinary arts students of the Art Institute of California. It's in the Art Institute of California building in Santa Ana.

The bistro is open during the school year, with brief closings between quarters. It will reopen Oct. 10, after the current break.

Lest you think this is not very swift food prepared by a bunch of kids, let me assure you that I know the executive chef instructor who came from a long career cheffing in good restaurants.

I've eaten at 50 Forks and reported on it here before. However, when I wrote about it, it was only open for lunch; possibilities have expanded.

You will be impressed at what comes from the fully open kitchen where you can see all the cooking action going on. This is actually the final passage prior to graduation for seniorlevel culinary students.

Before the break, the prix fixe $12 dinner menu included duck ravioli with wild mushroom jus, roasted baby beets with goat cheese, choice of Chilean sea bass or filet mignon for the entree and a caramelized tarte tatin served with crème anglaise and non-alcoholic beverage.

It was pretty elegant, all artfully presented.

The menu items probably will change with this new school quarter, but they'll be equally impressive, I'm sure.

They serve lunch and dinner Monday through Wednesday. Lunch is from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and dinner's from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

So put a star or a checkmark on your calendar for Monday, Oct. 10, as a reminder that's when 50 Forks reopens.

It is not only fun to see how culinary students get their training, it's more than eyeopening to see the food and taste the good things they are serving at cost. Everyone should experience this.

50 Forks in the Art Institute of California building is located on Sunflower at the corner of Harbor Blvd. in Santa Ana. For more information, call (714) 429-0918.