cook the books

0 Comments | Sunday Herald, The, Nov 14, 1999 | by Anna Burnside

Good Food Countdown to Christmas ed Mary Cadogan, BBC Worldwide, #7.99

CALLING all well-organised swots, goody-goodies and those hateful Perfect People whose children make adorably squelchy chocolate truffles as Christmas gifts. In fact, if you are really Mr, Mrs or Ms Perfect it might not be the book for you as the Christmas Countdown starts on November 1 and you should have already tidied the cupboards, cleared the freezer and then filled it again with Lesley Waters' Spicy Cigars.

But even if organisation is not your thing, this is a helpful friend to have around for the festive season. Preparing and freezing Gary Rhodes's vegetarian feast on December 6 may be a counsel of perfection, but it does sound pretty damn good: stilton rarebit and chestnut bubble with roast parsnips and a sinful creamy lemon sauce.

Mary Cadogan, who is deputy editor of the BBC Good Food magazine, has managed to include answers to all those difficult dilemmas. How long do I roast the turkey? Do I make the bread sauce or the roast potatoes first? And, crucially, what on earth will I serve at the drinks party?

This is the $64,000 question of the festive season. Christmas dinner should be traditional and no one tires of it. What they do weary of, and quickly, is crisps, peanuts, horrible glutinous salsa out of a jar and filo pastry moneybags with something tongue- igniting inside. So big Brownie points for the chunky chips with home- made dips and mini roast potatoes with cute toppings for the Perfects. I am looking forward to going to their party this Christmas.

Anna Burnside