Postcard home; Summit meeting

0 Comments | Sunday Herald, The, Feb 4, 2001 | by Sheila Grant

Reader Sheila Grant went walking, climbing, birdwatching and eating cake in mountainous Speyside, where Scotland's natural beauty is at its peak In THEIR headlong rush up the A9 to the Cairngorms most people miss Speyside's lesser known attractions. The beauty of the area is that you can easily take these in while standing on a suitable summit.

Arriving at Aviemore after the long drive, it's a relief to park at the tourist office, don our boots, and climb the path to the summit of Craigellachie. Its 1607 feet provides a worthwhile challenge, and the view is more spectacular than many a Munro. Cairngorm summit is easy to identify - a helicopter buzzes the peak like an overactive wasp, laying cement on the summit as part of the construction of the controversial funicular railway. The Lairig Ghru gouges deeply between Ben Macdui and Braeriach while, far beneath us, the scudding sails on Loch Insh cause barely a ripple on its blue surface.

From our lofty perspective, we can also see cars blitzing their way north as the A9 snakes through some of Scotland's most spectacular scenery close to bonny Loch Alvie. We turn to face northeast in a vain attempt to pinpoint the other Craigellachie, which with this one traditionally marks the boundaries of Clan Grant land. From this height one would never guess that the glistening ribbon of the River Spey is Scotland's fastest flowing river. Parent buzzards, graciously choosing to ignore our presence, provide us with a spectacular display as they introduce their three youngsters to the joys of flying.

A glimpse of the roof of the Hilton Coylumbridge reminds us how hungry we are and we make our way back to the car, accompanied by a pair of peregrine falcons, screaming with irritation at our presence.

Next morning, our appetites sharpened by an early morning swim, we make short work of the Hilton's buffet breakfast and head out again, turning into the B970, signposted Nethybridge. In next to no time we are admiring Loch Pityoulish nestling by the slopes of the Slugan Pass, disappointed not to catch a glimpse of the legendary monster.

We eat lunch leaning on the high protective wall around Kincardine Church. It's difficult to believe that such a peaceful place was the site of a massacre. During the 15th century a party of Cummings took refuge in the church but their pursuers, the Grants and the Stuarts, fired a burning arrow into the heather hatched roof killing the victims and partly destroying the building. Kincardine is also one of the few churches to retain a "leper's blink", a tiny window where lepers could take part in the service without coming into contact with the healthy members of the congregations.

Leaving the church we continue on our way. Since there are no brides in our party it is safe to cross the bridge over the burn at Street Of Kincardine, a small hamlet of a dozen or so houses. Legend has it that, during a spate, a young girl on the way to her wedding was washed away and a curse put on the bridge. There are many tales of girls defying the curse and crossing the bridge prior to the wedding and the subsequent bad luck that has befallen them.

Striding briskly on, we enter Abernethy Forest. From several trails, we choose the shortest one to reach our goal, the RSPB Osprey Hide. The male has already brought in two fish today, and the powerful binoculars provided give an excellent view of the two chicks getting stuck in to their portion, watched from a neighbouring pine tree by their parents.

We too must fly, so stride briskly over the bridge to Boat Of Garten, from where a steam railway plies its way across the moor to Aviemore, giving another magnificent aspect of the mountains. A roe deer nibbles the heather shoots, unfazed by our passing.

Back in Aviemore, there is just time to enjoy a slice of cake on the balcony of the Mountain Shop tearoom before walking the mile and a half back to the hotel Further information Hilton Coylumbridge Aviemore, Inverness-shire 01479 813 066 or log on to www.hilton.com #120 for a double or twin room, per night.

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