Horrors amid Versace's unbeatable sirens

EVER WONDERED what Versace woman wears when she's not attending a film premiere? Is she really capable of dressing down? These were some of the burning issues tackled by the high priestess of glamourama, Donatella Versace, last night in Milan.

Against the usual backdrop and catwalk illuminated by burning neon lights - an environment that increasingly looks and feels more like the inside of a microwave oven - Versace decided to offer a less predictable look than her usual high-voltage gear. Out stormed models in weekend wear, comprising jeans - cut lean and mean - and blousons in jumbo cord, stone- washed leather that looked as if it had been laminated to the models' legs, sable-lined parkas and big shearling coats.

Some of the girls, with their easy wash-and-wear hair, even dragged colourful furs on the floor behind them but the overall effect of such luxurious fabrics cut into more relaxed clothes looked almost cosy - if it hadn't been for the suede boots with 10-inch gold nail heels, some of which snapped despite being worn by the world's lightest women.

Versace was obviously attempting to break new ground with her high- neck black jersey dresses for day, some of which - the ones that exposed bare backs - worked well. But this darker, more sombre territory brought with it some real horrors, such as a black chiffon dress ruched unkindly around the waist and sporting tan leather cap sleeves, a lurid green, brown and black zig-zag print, not to mention the fleet of caramel leather bondage dresses and neck harnesses with surgical buckles and straps, more reminiscent of those used in sanatoriums.

However, no one can beat Donatella at the siren dress and these were as delicious as ever. Corseted cocktail dresses printed with colourful ostrich feathers were plisseed on the bodice and came with flirty chiffon skirts, others looked more suitable for Oscar night, cut to cling to every curve in emerald or dove grey satin. Young Hollywood starlets take note!

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