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THE 50 BEST PLACES TO EAT BREAKFAST

Independent, The (London),  Apr 2, 2005  by Jenni Muir

We all know it's the most important meal of the day, but how do you like your breakfast? Whether it's a hearty fry-up, a croissant, or porridge and whisky, Jenni Muir tells you where to find the finest.

n 10 BEST CLASSIC CAFES & PUBS

n 10 BEST MODERN BRASSERIES & CAFES

n 10 BEST DELIS & PATISSERIES

n 10 BEST HOTELS & FORMAL DINING

n 10 BEST JUICE BARS & TAKEAWAYS

1

NEW PICCADILLY, LONDON W1

Retro chic? No, the fittings in this old-fashioned diner are vintage 1950s. Full of red booth seats, swivel chairs and yellow Formica decorated with abstract swirls, New Piccadilly is a glinting jewel among greasy spoons, and precious, too, for it's one of the largest and best preserved venues of this endangered British species. Note the horseshoe-shaped menu board. Bring your hangover and indulge in omelette and chips, served by aproned waiters. Where: 8 Denman Street, London W1 (020-7437 8530). When: daily 12noon-9pm.

2

THE WOLSELEY, LONDON W1

The Wolseley dishes up lashings of celebrity frisson, even when you can't actually see anyone famous in the room. Its breakfast menu mainlines on classics-with-a-twist, so the fried eggs that come with Ayrshire bacon are duck rather than chicken, and hash is made with crab instead of corned beef. It's also one of the few places you can order waffles, which come with a choice of maple syrup, or creme fraiche and berries. Where: 160 Piccadilly, London W1 (020-7499 6996; www.thewolseley.com). When: Mon-Sat 7am-12mdn't, Sat 9am- 12mdn't, Sun 9am-11pm.

3

CLIVE RAMSAY, STIRLING

Locals battle with tourists for tables at this popular eaterie alongside Clive Ramsay's delicatessen in the historic Victorian spa town Bridge of Allan. Ramsay and his family have been selling gourmet groceries from the premises since 1984, but the operation expanded a few years ago to include a cafe-restaurant of Scots- Italian flavour. First-class cooked breakfasts feature traditional dry-cured bacon, free-range eggs, and Scottish black pudding. You'll also find porridge, pancakes, and excellent cappuccino. Where: 28 Henderson Street, Bridge of Allan, Stirling, Scotland (01786 833903; www.cliveramsay.com). When: daily 8am-5pm.

4

THE PARK, LONDON SW1

Executive chef David Nichols is the man behind this superb venue, tucked discreetly into the exclusive Mandarin Oriental hotel, which expertly blends modern style with British gentility and charming views of lush Hyde Park. For breakfast, there's a full English, of course. Also on the menu are grilled kidneys with bacon, fried egg and tomato, kippers, smoked- haddock kedgeree, a choice of pancakes or waffles with bacon and maple syrup, and premium freshly squeezed juices, including pineapple. Where: Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1 (020-7201 3722). When: daily 7am-11am.

5

BLACKSTONE'S KITCHEN, BATH

The CVs of Daniel and Rebecca Blackstone include esteemed food names such as the Square, Chez Bruce, Mosimann's and Delia Smith. Last year, the couple opened a gourmet takeaway and traiteur in the centre of Bath, majoring on tippety- top fresh, local ingredients. The Croque Monsieur is made with sourdough from Hobbs House bakery. Yogurts come from Rover Cottage. Most popular? Bacon sarnies with homemade chilli jam. The jam is so popular they now sell it in pots, too.

Where: 10a Queen Street, Bath (01225 338803; www.blackstonefood.co.uk). When: from April Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm.

6

E PELLICCI, LONDON E2

Originally built at the turn of the 20th century, Pellicci's cafe was extensively refurbished in authentic Art-Deco-style during the 1940s, when a local carpenter called Achille Capocci created its marquetry paneling. English Heritage has now designated the caff, which is famously a former meeting place of the late Bethnal Green- based Kray brothers, a Grade II- listed building. Its current owner, Nevio, was born above the shop. Real class: you can order ham-on- the-bone instead of bacon with your fry-up if desired. Where: 332 Bethnal Green Road, London E2 (020-7739 4873). When: Mon-Sat 6.30am- 5pm.

7

TAPA ROOM, LONDON W1

The Tapa Room, below Peter Gordon's fusion restaurant, Providores, is crowded and noisy during cocktail hour, but mornings are more meditative: contemplate the zen of brown rice and miso porridge with apples and maple syrup. From the Near East comes Turkish eggs, poached and served with yogurt and hot chilli butter. You can play it simple with sourdough toast and Vegemite, or go for broke with French toast, luxuriously stuffed with banana and pecans and served with grilled bacon and vanilla verjus syrup. Where: 109 Marylebone High Street, London W1 (020-7935 6175; www.theprovidores.co.uk). When: Mon-Fri 9am-11am, Sat & Sun 10am- 3pm.

8

PAUL, LONDON W1, WC2 & EC4

Take Paul's superior home-baked breads, add a few eggs and voila! You have a wholesome start to the day. The cafes at the rear of the bread shops offer a choice of salmon or bacon served Benedict-style with toast, poached eggs and hollandaise. Alternatively, follow a virtuous bowl of grapefruit segments with delectable viennoiserie, including creamy almond croissants and escargot raisin. The new Fleet Street branch is for takeaways only. Where: 115 Marylebone High Street, London W1 (020-7224 5615); 29 Bedford Street, WC2 (020- 7836 3304); 147 Fleet Street, EC4 (020-7353 5874). When: breakfast 7.30am-11.30am.