Hair and Beauty: Clean up your act

0 Comments | Sunday Mirror, Jan 31, 1999

CLEAN UP YOUR KIT Grungy make-up bags harbour bacteria and dirty brushes make dingy work of make-up. For a quick fix between jobs, make- up artists dip brushes in dry cleaning solution (from chemists). For a proper weekly cleanse-and-care session, gently shampoo and condition natural bristles. Once a week, clean inside your make-up bag with washing- up liquid, then wipe with disinfectant.

LIGHTEN UP FOUNDATION Dark, heavy bases dull your complexion and leave ageing tidemarks. Lancome's resident make-up artist Fred Farrugia suggests you go one shade lighter to look 10 years younger, then soften with blusher. Try Blanc Beige, the palest shade in Lancome's new range of Teint Optim'Age foundations, pounds 19.50.

STOP SLEEPING IN MAKE-UP There's no evidence that skin "suffocates", but being lazy won't do you many favours. "Long-term poor cleansing habits encourage blackheads, acne lesions and bumps under the skin," says Daniel Maes, vice-president of research and development for Estee Lauder.

EASE UP ON MOISTURISERS Skin experts believe heavy creams encourage enlarged pores and acne. "The more you apply, the more you risk adverse effects like allergic acne reactions," says Dr David Fenton, consultant dermatologist at St John's Institute of Dermatology at St Thomas's Hospital, London. "People with normal skin need very little extra help." A light moisturiser with an SPF15 is all most of us need for comfort and safety. Try Nivea Visage Anti-UV Day Creme, pounds 6.25.

KICK NAIL ABUSE Dump the metal file, clippers and rough, gritty emery boards - they're the reasons your nails split and flake. Use a fine-textured grooming board and go gently. "Point your hand towards your face and start filing from the left side upwards in one direction only," advises Sylvia Curran, nail technician for Alida. "Leave the sides until last and gently round them off. And don't saw." Try The Edge Shape and Shine Block, pounds 2.95.

STOP BUTCHERING YOUR BROWS Over-plucking distorts hair follicles so brows refuse to grow back. The result is a permanently surprised expression that hardens and ages your features. Brows should begin above your inner eye corners and softly frame the eyes. For precision use slant-tip tweezers - make-up artist Ruby Hammer recommends Tweezerman, pounds 15.

THROW AWAY YOUR LIP LINER A hard, dark edge makes lips look meaner. The new look for lips is sheer and natural. If you must line, use a neutral pencil like MAC Lipliner, Spice, pounds 8.

DON'T OVER-EXFOLIATE Too much skin scrubbing is a big mistake. Granules can scratch, while fruit acids in creams and cleansers can dry. Facial expert Janet Filderman believes firm massage with a regular cleanser helps shift dead flakes while boosting healthy circulation.

...AND HERE ARE SOME HABITS THAT MAY NOT BE SO BAD

Spot squeezing It's okay if you do it gently. Many facialists gently squeeze blackheads and spots when skin is warm and relaxed after a massage. Wrap your fingertips in tissue and don't force - if it doesn't come easily, you'll do damage.

Forgetting night cream Your skin may not need it - especially if it's oily. Some dermatologists say an overnight rest from anti- ageing creams minimises the risk of allergies. But if your skin's dry, they protect from central heating and air conditioning.

Washing your face Soap is too alkaline for dry skin, but dermatologist Dr David Fenton says it can help de-grease oiliness. Try pH-balanced washes which suit most skins and shift make-up faster than lotions. But make sure you rinse thoroughly.

Buying cheap make-up Refusing to buy the most expensive products won't wreck your skin. Budget brands cut corners on packaging and more costly anti-ageing ingredients. But products are tested for performance and skin- safety. Check ranges like Collection 2000 - prices start at pounds 1.49. An incredible two-week production turnaround means shades stay fashionably hot.