Holidays: Life of Luxory

PHILIP MELLOR Edited by Sarah Whitfield King

IT was Aladdin who put that extra magic into Egypt. This was no pantomime character but a suave, educated guide who managed to light up the majesty, power and treasures of one of the world's greatest civilisations.

His stage was the pyramids at Giza. His encore was the Museum of Egyptology in Cairo.

Aladdin Khalifa really made a trip to Egypt something to remember. Simply reading the guide books can in no way prepare you for this ancient land.

If you have a choice of visiting anywhere in the world, Egypt and the River Nile must be near the top of any list.

My trip there lasted six days. The time flew past...so many incredible sights, sounds and smells. I arrived in Luxor at night. Just after dawn I opened the bedroom shutters and stepped on to the balcony which looked straight over the Nile to the plateau of the Valley of the Kings.

Luxor is one vast open museum and is like stepping back in time. It owes its very existence, like the rest of Egypt, to the life- giving Nile. Luxor boasts two temples. Karnak is the largest religious site anywhere in the world with 200 acres filled with carved columns and pylons. The star is the Great Hypostyle Hall with 134 stone columns alone to support the roof.

Visit the Museum of Luxor, packed with even more priceless treasures.

The West Bank of the Nile, opposite Luxor, is the magnet for tourists, covering the Valley of the Kings, the Valleys of the Queens, the Temple of Queen Hatchepsut and much, much more.

Find a guide - they all appear to have a love for Egyptology and bring to life what has been dead for centuries. They can also keep some of the more persistent hawkers at bay.

A must stop on the way to the Valley of the Kings is the Colossi of Memnon, two stone statues which sit like giant sentinels at the start of the burial grounds.

A few tips for first-timers in Egypt. Drink at least three litres of bottled water a day. Wear light clothing and a hat or even take a brolly to fend off the sun. In the Valley of the Kings, even in late- April, the temperature nudged 40C.

Before leaving Luxor hire a felucca, or sailing boat, on the Nile for a couple of hours - there is nothing quite so exhilarating.

Bartering is a way of life in Egypt. Most shop owners and salesmen have a good sense of humour. One shop declared: "Extra hassle - add 10 per cent."

If you are not interested just keep walking and avoid making eye contact.

Don't be afraid to explore Luxor and get away from the tourist beat. I enjoyed a couple of hours in the suq (market), where the locals shop and live. Piles of fresh fruit and vegetables and spices hit the senses. We enlisted the help of one of the small boys to do some shopping for us. He more than saved his tip.

A quick flight along the course of the Nile brought us to Cairo where Aladdin came into his own.

We flew over the pyramids as we approached the airport, but this was merely a taste of the size and magnificence of the three pyramids and the Sphinx.

The Great Pyramid of Giza was built around 2,600BC and is the last survivor of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. It contains about 16million tons of stone, more than enough to build all the cathedrals and churches in England. Some stones weigh 16 tons and were positioned to within a thousandth of an inch.

The other two smaller pyramids are no less spectacular, and standing guard is the Sphinx.

Next stop was that treasure-filled Museum of Egyptology. Aladdin was in his element, pointing out the simplest of everyday items which we take for granted yet made all those centuries ago. He quietly built up to the jewel of the museum, the priceless artefacts of Tutankhamun's tomb.

Driving in Cairo is strictly for the locals. Take a cab but remember to fix the price before starting any journey.

An early visitor once wrote: "Egypt contains more wonders than any other land, and is pre-eminent above all countries in the world for works that one can hardly describe."

That is even more true today so go and see for yourself.

Egyptians are proud of their history and are welcoming and friendly. Don't be put off by the security. Large hotels have guards and security gates for your own protection.

The only annoyance I met in six days was an oafish immigration official at Cairo Airport. He thought it only right to shout and abuse foreign passengers who had crossed some imaginary line in front of his kiosk. His fellow officers looked away in embarrassment as he nearly broke his wrist stamping my exit visa.

Never mind, he obviously hadn't enjoyed his week as much as I had.

Perhaps Aladdin and the hundreds of other Egyptians I met should give him a few lessons in politeness.-SEVEN nights B&B at the Emilio Hotel, Luxor, costs pounds 239 per person (Nov) with Libra Holidays (0870 066 4817/www. libraholidays.co.uk). A seven-night full-board Nile cruise with the same company is pounds 459 per person (Dec).

-FURTHER information: Egyptian Tourist Office, 170 Piccadily, London W1V 9DD (020 7493 5283).THE FACTSw

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