48 hours in.. Montreal

Sunday Mirror, Jan 23, 2005

MONTREALERS know how to throw a good party. Come rain or shine or even in the midst of a snowy Canadian winter there's always cause for celebration.

From the Just for Laughs Festival (July 14-23) to the International Montreal Jazz Festival (June 30-July 10), to the High Lights Festival (February 17-27), Montreal is emerging as the world capital of festivals. But the second-largest French-speaking city in the world (with a population of 3.6million) is fun whatever the time of year - after all, this is the city where Cirque du Soleil cut its showbiz teeth.

DAY ONE: MORNING

MAKE tracks up to Mount Royal Park, the crowning glory of Mont Royal. Rising above the city, Mont Royal may be more of a gentle slope than a mountain, but from the top of the green heart of the metropolis there are wonderful views.

If you can't summon the energy to climb more than 300 steps to reach the Oratoire Saint-Joseph (devout pilgrims ascend on their knees) take the lifts to enjoy the panorama from the north-western slope or simply admire from afar the Oratory's amazing 45m-high copper dome (admission free, 001 514 733 8211) - second in size only to St Peter's Basilica in Rome.

AFTERNOON

HEAD downtown to 1249 Metcalfe on the corner of Sainte Catherine and try the famous Montreal smoked meat at Dunns Delicatessen & Bar. Open all hours, this old-fashioned establishment has been serving up the city's speciality since 1927 (from pounds 2).

Take the subway (Station Place-D'Armes) to Vieux Montreal and stroll along the promenade - called "the window" on the St Lawrence river and soak up the atmosphere of the historic port of this island city.

Explore the picturesque cobbled streets winding away from the 19th Century Place Jacques-Cartier. Close by is the Marche Bonsecours at 350 Saint- Paul E - its distinctive silver dome is easy to spot in the distance. The former city hall now houses boutiques displaying fashions from Canadian designers and art galleries and cafes.

EVENING

PREPARE to be dazzled by the spectacular light and sound show at the Notre-Dame Basilica (opposite Place d'Armes) as the story of Montreal and this neo-Gothic cathedral is recounted using high tech lighting effects and the ornate interior as a dramatic backdrop. This is also where local girl Celine Dion tied the knot. Tickets: adults pounds 4.50, children pounds 2.50 from 110 Notre-Dame St West (001 514 842 2925).

Stroll along St Laurent buzzing with night clubs and bars and round off the evening at Buonanotte, 3518 St -Laurent (001 514 848 0644). Try to get a table at this little piece of Italy in the heart of Montreal which prides itself on its fresh pasta (main dishes from pounds 11). Give in to temptation and slip into the glass-fronted bar of the city's newest boutique hotel, the Godin at 10 Sherbrooke West and join the local in-crowd for that last nightcap.

DAY TWO: MORNING

VISIT the world's second largest botanical gardens at 4101 Sherbrooke East. This unlikely hotbed of horticulture (only London's Kew Gardens is bigger), boasts a collection of 22,000 species of plants from all over the globe, within 10 greenhouses, a tree house and 30 outdoor-themed gardens including the stunning Chinese garden - the biggest outside China. Admission: adults from pounds 4, children (5-17) from pounds 2, under-fives free. (001 514 872 1400, www.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin)

AFTERNOON

BAG a warm bagel to eat on the run from Fairmount Bagel Bakery at 74 Avenue Fairmount West where the authentic Montreal Bagel is produced round the clock. It's also a good place to get warm while you watch the bagels emerge from the wood-burning oven. Then get ready to shop - with nearly 1,200 stores lining Sainte Catherine Street between Guy and Saint-Denis Streets.

Montreal has the biggest collection of fashion boutiques and shops in Canada. For small boutiques browse round Mont-Royal Avenue and Saint-Denis Street. If your taste is for the more arty and exotic then head for the Saint-Laurent Boulevard and for mainstream labels go to the top department store Holt Renfrew.

Keep an eye open for the striking white Illuminated Crowd sculpture erected in front of the modern blue-tinted glass Banque Nationale de Paris and the Laurentian Bank's twin tower. This is one of several public art sculptures scattered throughout the city. The existence of such sculptures owes much to the "one per cent law" - one per cent of each construction budget must be spent on a piece of art to be displayed outside or in the foyer of the building, with the aim of making art free and accessible to all.

If the weather's wet and cold just go down to the warm dry sanctuary of the underground city - a unique pedestrian network system of more than 30kms of shops and restaurants conveniently linked with the subway system.

EVENING

FOR a cosy relaxing dinner be sure to book a table at Europea Restaurant in the heart of downtown at 1227 rue De la Montagne (001 514 398 9718). Lamb shank and sea bass are among the dishes featured on a menu which uses fresh Quebec produce (two courses from pounds 18). If you fancy finishing your stay on a high note, nurse a cocktail in the fashionable Wunderbar in the city's hippest hostelry, W Hotel at 901 Square Victoria, recently launched with the celebrity blessing of stars such as Rachel Weisz and Hugh Jackman who are in town to film The Fountain.