How one egg farmer has gone cage-free for 20 years

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, May 28, 2003

IT'S not just about drumsticks: Sustainable egg production is also a growing industry, and the difference in flavor and quality is tangible. Steve Mahrt, self-proclaimed "head chicken farmer" and owner of Petaluma Farms, has been selling fertile, cage-free and organic eggs to West Coast consumers for 20 years. The company sells cage-free eggs under two labels: Rock Island Brown Fertile Eggs and Judy's Family Farm Organic Eggs. Judy's, named after Mahrt's wife, were the first eggs in California to be third-party certified organic. "We're the original, free-ranging chicken people," says Mahrt, a former California Egg Commission chairman. "I grew up in the commercial egg business, but unlike my dad, I decided to find a niche in the natural foods business. "I wanted as sustainable a product as possible, and that meant having roosters and hens interacting and mating in a natural environment. That's why we market the Rock Island eggs as being 'fertile' -- it just denotes that they're not raised in cages. For our organic eggs, all that was required was a simple feed change, because we'd already been employing a sustainable approach to raising our birds for 20 years." Instead of being egg-laying machines confined to cages for their two-year production cycle, Mahrt's birds spend their days in open-sided houses that allow them access to sunlight and fresh air. The design provides natural ventilation and the access to daylight means a decrease in reliance on artificial light sources. "Sustainability is an approach, not a single item," says Mahrt. "It's a way of looking at things. I believe food should be local, so we have no plans to expand. But we're continually trying to upgrade, try new things. We have sheep to eat our weeds, we use energy-efficient fluorescent lighting for dark days. Water conservation and quality are very important to us, as is managing organic waste so it doesn't pollute." Petaluma Farms employs a cold water ozone rinse (the by-products of which are oxygen and water) in their processing plant, in order to sanitize eggs and thus ensure a chemical-free, pure water supply. The process relies on hydrogen peroxide bubbles created by an ozone generator to kill germs. Manure is composted and sold to local organic farms, whose crops are in turn purchased by Mahrt's family, creating a cycle of sustainability that nurtures and supports local family farms. Feed and freshness are key factors in determining egg quality, but, says Mahrt, "healthy animals produce healthy food," which is why he chooses to raise chickens cage- free. The prohibitive cost of organic feed is the reason Mahrt hasn't gone entirely organic. All of his birds eat a 100 percent vegetarian diet of corn and soy meal, but only the Judy's hens receive certified organic feed. "We use corn that is considered to be GMO-free, but we still can't guarantee non-GMO soy, although we're hopeful about soon being able to have a reliable resource," he says. While shell color is the result of genetics, the hue of the yolk depends on feed. The yolks of eggs from cage-free hens fed a vegetarian diet supplemented by foraged foods such as grass seeds and insects tend to be a deep yellow to orange color. "Cage-free, organic eggs, like the ones I purchase from the farmers' market, are so much better," says Earl Darny, pastry chef at Oakland's Bay Wolf. "They whip up higher (and) have better volume because they're fresher, and the color is just amazing -- they're great for dishes where that's a factor, such as certain sauces or cakes. Overall, the quality is great, and you can really taste the difference in terms of richness." Freshness is paramount to a good egg. "Eggs, from the moment they're laid, begin to pick up flavors," explains Mahrt. "We try to prevent this by collecting them right away -- up to five times a day -- and getting them into the refrigerator right away. They hit the store within hours." Best of all, even organic eggs are an affordable commodity. Says Mahrt, "People forget that eggs are a great source of protein, especially when compared to the cost of beef or pork. Good, wholesome food shouldn't be elitist -- everyone should have access to it."

-- Laurel Miller

AIOLI (GARLIC MAYONNAISE)

Recipe courtesy of "The Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook" by Alice Waters, (Harper Collins, $34). This luscious condiment is superb on sandwiches, grilled poultry or seafood, or as a simple dip for grilled summer vegetables and potatoes. 3 cloves garlic

Salt

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

3/4 cup pure olive oil

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Mash the garlic to a smooth paste in a mortar with a pinch of salt. Take out a third of the paste and set aside. To the rest of the garlic add 1 teaspoon water, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and the egg yolk, stirring well. Combine the two types of olive oil. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, a few drops at a time. As the mixture begins to thicken, begin adding the oil in a slow, steady stream. If the aioli becomes too thick, thin it with a bit of water and continue. After all the oil has been mixed in, taste for salt and garlic and adjust accordingly. Refrigerate until needed. Aioli should be used the day it is made, preferably within a few hours -- the fresh garlic flavor dissipates and becomes unpleasant.