Korean liquor soju becoming a Bay Area favorite

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, Jun 30, 2004 | by Melissa Kaman, CONTRIBUTOR

WHEN I first sampled soju, I was sitting in a booth at Rohan Lounge in San Francisco, nibbling on house-made kim chee. The Korean liquor was the star ingredient in The Haiku, the upscale Asian restaurant's signature cocktail of soju splashed with vermouth, infused with cucumber and shaken into an ice-cold elixir. Unlike sake, the Japanese rice wine, soju can be distilled from a variety of grains and tubers. However, it's most commonly a mixture of sweet potato, barley and rice. "As long as Korea has been around, so has soju," says Rolan Reichel, proprietor of Rohan Lounge in San Francisco. "A long time ago, they would make it from whatever was available in the fields. In that way, it's truly a farm liquor." Reichel says there's even a soju made from 70 percent tapioca. Most sojus range from 22 to 24 percent alcohol, but can reach up to 45 or 50 as well. The flavors have an equally large range, but are generally clean-tasting, palate-cleansing, and just ever-so-slightly sweet. "Soju doesn't have the depth of flavors that wine or sake does," says Reichel. It's more accessible in a lot of ways -- something the American palate can quickly accept." Which is why soju's popularity has spread beyond Asia into the United States. Chicago even has a restaurant named after the liquor. In addition to owning and managing Rohan, Reichel distributes soju to Bay Area restaurants. Pearl Oyster Bar, a new restaurant on Oakland's College Avenue, is one of his newest clients. General manager Bob Kovacs put soju on the cocktail list as a way to offer fun, tasty drinks without using hard liquors such as vodka or gin. Pearl's "soju-tinis" include all the classic suspects -- mojitos, cosmopolitans and martinis -- including gibsons and gimlets. They've only been on the list for a couple weeks, but Kovacs says they've been popular. "As long as those who are used to drinking high-end vodkas know that soju is lower in alcohol and a bit sweeter, they enjoy it," Kovacs says. He adds that the liquor, because it has a clean finish without any pronounced flavors, does not interfere with their food, which includes many raw fish items and oysters. Because of its subtle flavor, soju also does not enhance the flavors of food the way beer and wine do. "The concept really doesn't work as well," says Reichel. "We tell people the best way to choose is by your own palate rather than by what you're eating." Traditionally, soju has been single distilled, but its increasing international popularity is convincing soju makers to spend more time on production. Accordingly, stronger double- and triple-distilled sojus are making their way into the market. One of the best places to buy soju is Koreana Plaza in Oakland, formerly known as Pusan Plaza. "That store and that area is pretty much ground zero for Korean products," says Reichel. Soju is available there in either 375- or 750-ml bottles, and for far less money than you'd spend on vodka or gin. Rohan Lounge, 3809 Geary St., San Francisco, (415) 221-5095. Pearl Oyster Bar, 5634 College Ave., Oakland, (510) 654-5426.The Haiku

This cool, cucumber martini is perfect for summer. Recipe courtesy of Rohan Lounge in San Francisco.4 ounces soju

Dash of dry vermouth

Two thin slices cucumber

Handful of ice, or 4 ice cubes, crushed

In a shaker, combine soju and vermouth with one slice of cucumber and ice. Shake firmly and strain into a chilled martini glass. Serve immediately. Serves 1.

World Flavors appears the last Wednesday of every month. Send comments and ethnic market or ingredient suggestions to Melissa Kaman at melkaman@earthlink.net .