Greek cuisine with contemporary flare

Oakland Tribune, Aug 20, 2004 by Frosene Phillips

ATHENS, Greece, Aug. 20, 2004 - Dining in Greece is a ritual not to be taken lightly. Fresh fruits and vegetables are at a premium and in the event I may forget this personally, I have only to be awakened by a moveable vendor on a loudspeaker to remind me.

"Grapes, melons, lemons, squash," the booming voice can be heard throughout the streets as the produce truck hawks his wares to potential customers. In the US, we would have the ice cream truck to anticipate. Here it is fresh fruits and vegetables.

Eating in Greece requires patience, conversation and an appetite. Meze (appetizers) are the norm and run the gamut from grilled octopus and calamari to horiatiki salata (village Greek salad of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and feta) to spreads of melanzano salata (eggplant salad) or tsatziki (yogurt, cucumbers and garlic). With a family-style setting, the entree is often shared amongst each other as well.

Canaris' Corner, a caf and restaurant in the stylish district of Kolonaki, showcases an elevated Greek cuisine with a contemporary flare - a notable distinction similar to San Francisco's Kokkari Estiatorio. Kolonaki is like the Beverly Hills of Athens, filled with designer shops and charm.

The restaurant, like most in Greece, features outdoor dining and is located at the corner of Kanari and Akadimias. You can skip the traditional horiatiki salata and try a delicious salad of fresh greens, grilled chicken and a dill-flavored dressing. Small pockets of filo pastry filled with tender beef cubes and accented with a savory sauce was divine. Kataifi (light shredded wheat) with salmon, sun-dried tomato resting on top, placed quickly under the grill, and enhanced with another dill-inspired sauce, was the perfect portion and simply delicious.

Entrees varied from pasta, fish and meat dishes to the traditional such as mousaka. The display and execution of the cuisine was a refreshing surprise.

Canaris' Corner is just a short walking distance to Syntagma Square and Parliament where tourists often gather to take pictures and watch the impressive guards in their traditional foustanellas (skirts) as they move together in majestic uniformity. Back with you tomorrow with a few more phrases and a look at the recently renovated Syntagma Square.