Achieve that shimmery, glowy or dewy look

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, May 9, 2005 | by Jenny Slafkosky, STAFF WRITER

Walking through the cosmetics section at your local department store this season is like walking through an exotic garden in full bloom. Fresh, vibrant colors such as fuchsia, lilac, vermilion and blue share space with warm bronze, gold and amber shimmers.

"A lot of people think they can't wear colors, but this season you can," says Alice Sawdey, makeup artist and owner of the Concord- based Pin-Ups Makeup Artistry. "If there was ever a season to try it, this is it."

With spring fashion trends taking tips from India and the Mediterranean -- think decorated tunics, flowing skirts, and turquoise, purple and bronze hues -- makeup trends are following suit.

"The theme this spring is basically the fresh-faced look," says Lola Jimoh, makeup artist for the Becca cosmetics line, an Australian-based international company that aims to serve a multi- ethnic clientele.

"A moist, dewy, finish is very natural for the face with fun, bright colors and shimmers for the eyes and cheeks," she says.

Jimoh says women with fair skin should focus on bright, rosy cheeks with soft light blue, green or lavender shimmers on the eyes. African Americans, on the other hand, glow in golden brown andbronze shimmers that may be accented with warm, peachy cheeks and glossy gold-toned lips.

Latin women look great in warm, golden-bronze tones with shimmer on the eyes or cheeks, and are equally flattered by a fresh look with soft eyes and brighter cheeks and lips.

Bronzy shimmers also work well for women with Indian and Middle- Eastern complexions, especially when paired with cooler-toned coral and berry hues on cheeks and lips.

Oranges and corals are back in a big way on both cheeks and lips. Sawdey said the range of warm and cool tones available can complement a wide variety of skin tones.

"Peachies, corals and oranges are, to put it kind of a corny way, the new pink," says Sawdey. "While the colors are brighter this season, they're also lighter looking, they're not the heavy pigments we've seen before."

Cheeks are a perfect place to experiment with this season's bloom of color. From sweetly innocent coral to lush and peachy to deep, bronzy brown -- a natural, or not so natural, blush is the key to a vibrant spring face.

When experimenting with blush, Sawdey recommends looking at the hue of the blush you normally wear and then bumping up the color one or two shades. Use a fluffy brush to apply the blush to just the apples of your cheeks -- the part of your cheek that rounds when you smile slightly.

"Overplayed eyes, lips or cheeks are out," Jimoh says. "For spring and summer you want a fresh, natural look. It should be subtle and shimmery, pretty and youthful."

A hint of shine -- not a supernova of sparkle -- is essential for spring and summer looks this year and, when used sparingly, works for both younger and older women.

"A lot of older women think they can't wear anything shimmery," says Jimoh.

"'But it's not glitter, we're talking about -- it's more of a shimmer, a sheen."

Use shimmery colors or metallics on eyes or on cheeks but avoid doing an all-over shimmery look.

"It's not the total bling shimmer," Sawdey says.

Those who fear shimmer needn't worry, though, because smoky eyes are still in vogue. Yet they're softer and subtler, with no heavy liners or lashes. This season, soft, smoky eyes are paired with warm, glossy lips and, of course, healthy, blooming cheeks.

Experimenting with colors doesn't mean you have spend a bundle.

Sawdey suggests heading to the drugstore and picking new products to try.

"A lot of people don't know that department store brands own smaller drugstore companies, too," says Sawdey.

"You can go to the local Longs or Walgreens and try stuff out. Once you find a color you like you can go to a department store and get a matching color."