It's hard to stay silent when talking about Monks' Ale

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, Oct 26, 2005 | by Laurel Miller, CONTRIBUTOR

THE TRADITION of Belgian abbeys brewing beer dates back to the 11th century. Prior to the French Revolution in lands under Charlemagne's rule, monks were given exclusive brewing rights. Today, quality Belgian abbey ales such as Orval, Chimay and Achel are still produced according to the traditional methods required for an ale to be legitimately associated with a monastic order. (Abbey ales can also be produced without that association, but still need to follow strict production rules.)

The Benedictines and Trappists, strict monastic orders within the Roman Catholic Church, are especially known for their potent, top- fermented ales. In this process, the yeasts rise to the surface during fermentation, resulting in a thick, creamy head. Belgian ales are generally produced as either single, double (dubbel), or triple (tripel: X, XX or XXX), which refers to the amount of malt used, contributing to the ale's initial sugar, and eventual alcohol, content.

The brothers at Northern New Mexico's Monastery of Christ in the Desert are reviving this tradition with the debut of their unpasteurized, classic Belgian-style abbey Monks' Ale ("Made with Care and Prayer!") after the holidays. With the development and guidance of American master brewer Brad Kraus of Santa Fe, the ale is being produced under contract in nearby Corrizozo, although a brewery is under construction at the Pecos Benedictine Monastery. Along with Christ in the Desert, the two orders have formed the Abbey Beverage Co. When completed, the Pecos site will be the first monastery brewery in the United States in more than 100 years.

"Part of the profits from the ale will go to the company, and thus, the monasteries," Kraus says. "This is a venture designed to enable the order to preserve their monastic way of life, by producing a traditional product."

The flagship Monks' Ale received a gold medal at the New Mexico State Fair's Pro-Am competition. A judge described it as redolent of "biscuit with honey, sweet in balance between malt and spice, fruity and bready, fading to a clean finish." Slated for later release are the silver medal-winning dubbel Prior's Ale, and Abbot's Tripel.

Although Monks' Ale is unpasteurized and a decidedly regional product, Kraus says that if a beer is bottle-conditioned, it will still have a decent shelf life.

"Bottle conditioning is a traditional monastery method that means the ale will undergo fermentation in the bottle, much like Champagne," he says. "It allows any excess oxygen in the bottle to be taken up by the yeasts, to preserve shelf life and freshness. A beer does not need to be pasteurized to be widely distributed, but its quality is largely a reflection of the brewer, as well as the bottling process."

While the ales will eventually be available at both monasteries and their gift shops, its primary retail outlet will be at Monk's Corner, Christ in the Desert's artisanal food and handicraft shop in Santa Fe. This charming shop specializes in handcrafted foods grown and produced in secular communities, including jams, fudge, honey, and cookies. There is also silverwork and art, such as gorgeous Hispanic retablos (religious plaques) painted by the Christ in the Desert's Prior. While Monk's Corner is waiting to obtain its tasting- room permit, Kraus says Monks' Ale will debut on draft after the holidays at select Santa Fe restaurants, including Caf San Esteban, whose chef/owner, Esteban Garcia, is a former Franciscan monk.

Monks' Ale will also be served at Christ in the Desert's monastery and guest house in Abiquiu, an hour and a half north of Santa Fe. Abiquiu is known as "O'Keefe Country," because it served as both home and inspiration for painter Georgia O'Keefe. The adobe monastery and guest house are located in the remote Gallina Canyon, on the banks of the peaceful Rio Chama. The high-desert landscape is kaleidoscopic with red, yellow and white sandstone, yet lush with river-dwelling cottonwoods, sage and wildflowers.

Meals at the monastery are simple, seasonal affairs served in the rectory. Guests and monks dine together, but one of the rules of the monastery (and indeed, one of the attractions) is a vow of silence. Although guests can converse with monks specially designated to interact with guests, the monastery's guest house is a draw to those visitors seeking solitude, a place for reflection, or a spiritual retreat, regardless of religious affiliation or beliefs.

Guest rooms consist of simple, spare yet comfortable "cells" that look onto a central garden courtyard, and stays include all meals and a gift of monastery-crafted soap. The region abounds with hiking trails and fishing spots. Guests can also opt for a sunset ride along the river on one of the monastery's horses.

- For guest house reservations (two-day minimum and suggested donation for rooms) or to order artisan foods produced by secular communities, go to http://www.christdesert.org.

- For more information on Monks' Ale, Belgian ales and mail order, visit http://www.brewlikeamonk.com or email abbeybev@earthlink.net.