Lagunitas brewer rocks as he rolls out Zappa beers

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, Aug 29, 2007

ONE of the ardent fans in the crowd at Dweezil Zappa's "Zappa plays Zappa" concert in Berkeley last week was Tony Magee, the co- founder of Lagunitas Brewing.

He's a big fan of the late Frank Zappa and he says Zappa's son, Dweezil, is a dynamite musician. Most fans go to concerts, collect the music, maybe even start a blog. But Tony, who admits he gave up on his first love -- music -- as a young man and went on to found Lagunitas with his wife, Carissa Brader, a decade ago, has gone much further.

He's issuing special beers, marking the 40th anniversary of the release of each Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention album. The first beer: Freak Out Ale came out last year. This month, Lagunitas released Kill Ugly Radio , marking the 40th anniversary of the second Zappa album, "Absolutely Free."

Like almost all Lagunitas beers, this one's a beauty. It's got the signature, wild Lagunitas hoppy nose. A sparkling copper color with a big, rock head, the taste is crisp and dry with a subtle sweetness, a bit more restrained in the malt sweetness department than the typical Lagunitas ale.

Finish is dry with a slight, bitter edge. It's simply a pale ale, with a lot of hops, Magee says. It has the current Lagunitas hop package, Summit, a new hop with orange-tangerine-citrus notes, floral, spicy Horizon hops and piney, citrusy Cascades for finishing and dry hopping -- fresh hops are added to the beer in the fermenter.

About the name. Magee's a big Zappa fan and he's become friends with Zappa's widow, Gail Zappa.

"She wanted us to use the picture of Frank that's inside the album (with the slogan: Kill Ugly Radio)," he says. Magee promises a beer for each album. Stay tuned.

Lagunitas' next seasonal is already out: Imperial Red1/2and it's a stoner: Huge malt taste, whack from the hops, a trademark Lagunitas beer.

Ribs and hops

I had the privilege of helping judge the rib contest at the Bay Area Barbeque Cook Off & Music Festival at the Pleasanton Fair Grounds two weekends ago, along with Sara Sidner of KTVU and Dan Swift of Swift Meat Co. Except for the turbo-nuclear sauce from Johnson's Barbecue, Chesapeake, Va. -- the habaero chiles and cayenne could kill you -- it was a great occasion.

The cookoff, which also featured live music, produced by Bay Area Productions and Varner PR, drew thousands of barbecue fans with part of the proceeds benefiting the Alameda County Food Bank and Bay Area Community Services.

We gave the top award to Blazing Broncos, Cleveland, with its succulent, smoky ribs and tangy sauce. Wow.

Of course, I'm into beer and I was curious what beer would work with the ribs. Being a generous soul, I tried Bud Light, but the beer disappeared in the heat of the ribs.

This is no place for restraint: Think uber-hoppy. At a minium -- a hoppy India Pale Ale, such as BridgePort India Pale Ale, 21st Amendment IPA, Anchor Liberty Ale or Bear Republic Race 5. The malt sweetness pairs with the sweet ribs and the hop bitterness, cuts the heat and merges with the smoke the barbecue in spectacular fashion.

My rule: the spicier the BBQ, the hoppier the beer. But if your ribs are sweet, without heat, then a beer in the Marzen-Oktoberfest style will work well: Gordon Biersch Marzen, Sudwerk Hubsch Marzen, Sam Adams Oktoberfest, even Dos Equis. The caramel malts in the beer marries with the sweetness in the sauce.

Calendar

A busy season of tastings and fests ahead.

-Today, 6 p.m. Barclay's Restaurant & Pub, 5940 College Ave., Oakland, 510-654-1650. http://www.barclayspub.com. Brewer's Night with 21st Amendment co-owner, brewmaster Shaun O'Sullivan.

-Also today, 6 p.m., Tutored tasting of Avery Brewing, Boulder, Colo., beers by Adam Avery, Toronado, 547 Haight St., San Francisco. $35. Info: 415-863-2276.

-Friday 6:30 p.m., beer chef Bruce Paton's beer dinner featuring Avery and Russian River Brewing beers and the brewers, $85, Cathedral Hill Hotel, 1101 Van Ness Ave., San Francisco. Info: http:/ /www.beer-chef.com.

Beer ratings are based on a star system. World classic: Among the best beers in the world; / may be a star -- don't miss it.; / very good -- worth a try; -- good beer, drinkable, no defects; / not very good, OK to drink in a pinch; don't toss it, take it back to your retailer and demand a refund.

Staff writer William Brand publishes What's On Tap, a consumer craft beer and hard cider newsletter. He can be reached at 510-915- 1180. Fax: 510-841-6023. E-mail: whatsontap@sbcglobal.net.