Apples abundant this time of year

0 Comments | Oakland Tribune, Sep 25, 2008 | by Guido the Gardener

PRODUCE PROFILERS, if you are still eating peaches, plums and nectarines, you may want to shift gears. A check of the calendar tells me that Monday was the first day of fall. Sure, it's clear skies and 82 degrees outside but no matter.

Fall brings pears, persimmons, pomegranates and today's pick of the week: Apples. If you stay with me for the whole article you'll notice that it's not really apples as a topic, but rather apple sauce. No matter, there's always next time.

If you have followed me at all, you know I don't tell you where to shop. But in the case of old-fashioned apples, you are far better off at Farmer's Markets and smaller produce places. The reason is that in the fall we get apples from small, local growers who do not produce enough to supply the big stores. This is the only time of year that you will get to taste vintage, small-scale apples. So give them a go.

JONAGOLD: This is a larger scale apple that California and Washington will grow. But you will only find it in early fall. This originated in New York state circa 1953 as the proud offspring of a union between the semi-tart Jonathan and the sweet Gold Delicious . The Jonagold is a red-striped color over a yellow-green skin with a sweet/tart flavor balance. Lots of juice. One tip with this apple. If the background color is on the green side, it will be firmer in texture but not quite as sweet. On the other hand, if the background color is a golden yellow the bite will be softer, but it'll taste sweeter. This is the parent Gold Delicious coming to the fore. A straight Gold Delicious will do the exact same thing.

RED DELICIOUS: Twenty-five years ago this apple had 80 percent of the market. Today it is probably 10 percent to 15 percent. Here's one problem with this variety. Of the dozens of strains of Red Delicious (I think I remember about 250 as a figure) most of the current ones have been bred to be REAL RED. The reason I mention this out-of-favor variety here is that many of the older red delicious varieties (with more green striping) are very good small- scale apples.

This is one of my favorite produce stories. Seems that this long- time apple standard bearer was not born as the result of demographic testing, scientific hybridization or point-of-purchase coupon redemption. Nope. It just popped from the dirt of an Iowa farm in 1874. Sometimes I joke, but it's still a fine fresh eating apple. And right now, fresh off of the tree, the Red Delicious will be at its best. Just don't try to cook with it. Quite disappointing.

GRAVENSTEIN: This apple dates back to Germany in the late 1500s. It came to California in the early 1800s and by the late 1800s was well established in Sonoma County. Today they are growing grapes where the Grav's used to be, but the apples are still available. It is the best sauce apple you'll find. Some folks like to make pies with them but they do get soft when cooked.

GUIDO'S NO-HASSLE APPLE SAUCE: The title says it all. I bought about six pounds of bargain shelf apples. You know the kind -- a bang here, a bruise there. They were both tangy Gravenstein and sweet Fuji apples. The exact apple varieties are not that important. But what you do want is half sweet and half tangy apples in order to achieve a nice flavor balance. On the tart side you can also use a Pippin, Granny Smith, Empire, Rome or Braeburn. For the sweet side a Gala, Jonagold or Gold Delicious will work.

All I did was wash, core and slice the apples and put them in a big mixing bowl. No, I didn't peel them. Too much hassle. But you can, if you need the exercise. Next, I sprinkled the sliced apples with powdered ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. You can use finely chopped fresh ginger for a more robust flavor.

I then put the apples in a crock pot and added water enough to cover. I also added a couple of tablespoons of honey. Molasses also works, but it gives the sauce a dark color that I don't find appealing. I put the lid on the crock pot and cooked it on high for a couple of hours, just enough to soften them. At that point I mashed the apples with a wooden spoon to make the mix a bit creamier.

I then set the crock to low, took OFF the lid and let it cook a few more hours. The flavor noticeably improved after the longer cooking time. When it's done, add more sweetness or spice to your liking. The above makes a fairly chunky sauce. Whip the mix in a blender or food processor for a thinner texture. And yes this can be made on the stove or even the oven. This makes a great side dish or every day snack.

Reach Guido the Gardener, aka Mark Ferro, in care of Alameda Journal, 1516 Oak St., Alameda 94501.