Don't forget the cookies

Topeka Capital-Journal, The, Dec 1, 2001 by Capital-Journal

The Capital-Journal

The holidays bring to mind a number of culinary traditions- eggnog, roasted chestnuts, and fruitcakes among them.

One of the most versatile holiday foods is wonderfully simple --- cookies. Not only are they the perfect, light way to end a holiday meal; they also make perfect gifts.

To get you started, here is a recipe from Nick Malgieri's new cookbook, "Cookies Unlimited" (HarperCollins). Malgieri, who directs the baking program at Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, suggests madeleines for the season.

Malgieri describes madeleines as "little shell-shaped cakes that are one of the glories of French baking. Light, delicate, and buttery, they are surprisingly easy to prepare."

To prepare the following recipe, you will need two madeleine pans each with 12 cavities.

If you don't have madeleine pans, try using mini-muffin pans, the madeleines won't look the same, but they will taste as good."

Madeleines

2 large eggs pinch salt 1 (1)2 cup sugar est of 1 large orange, finely grated 1 teaspoon orange flower water (optional) 1 cup all-purpose flour 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted Confectioners' sugar, for finishing Two madeleine pans, buttered and floured Set a rack in the middle level of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees.

In a medium bowl, by hand, whisk together the eggs and salt until frothy, about 15 seconds. Whisk in the sugar in a stream, then the orange zest and orange flower water, if used.

Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour, then the melted butter.

Use a large soup spoon to fill the cavities in the molds about 2 (1)3 full.

Bake the madeleines for about 20 minutes, until they are well risen, firm, and a golden color.

Remove the pans from the oven and unmold the madeleines immediately onto racks to cool. If you want to reuse the pan, wash, then butter and flour it again.

Dust the madeleines lightly with confectioners' sugar, just before serving.

Store the cooled madeleines between sheets of parchment or wax paper in a tin or plastic container with a tight-fitting cover.

Makes 24 shell-shaped cookies.