Cooking for Martha Stewart: Former Utahn makes picture-perfect dishes

Deseret News (Salt Lake City), Jul 9, 2003 by Valerie Phillips Deseret Morning News

OREM -- The first time Tara Bench passed Martha Stewart in the hall of her magazine headquarters, "I was so amazed, thinking 'That's Martha Stewart!'"

But after four years of working at the popular New York City- based Martha Stewart Living magazine, the former Orem woman has gotten used to seeing the homemaking diva at staff meetings or giving a VIP tour.

Fans may be shocked to learn that for all Stewart's creative efficiency, she doesn't make all that food and write all those recipes in her elegant (and often-spoofed) home, garden and craft magazine. Some of those projects are cooked up by Bench, a 26-year- old Utah State University culinary graduate, and the magazine's senior associate food editor. As a staff member, Bench comes up with story ideas, creates the recipes and cooks them for the photos.

While other people follow trends, "We would like to think we set the trends," Bench said in an interview while visiting her parents at their Orem home last week.

It's a dream job for Bench, who started out with a five-month internship and has now made New York her home.

"Going through school I knew I didn't want to work at a restaurant and didn't want to cater," she said. " But I always loved food magazines. I wanted to create those beautiful pictures, and I minored in journalism to propel myself into the publishing industry. But the culinary program was so new that they hadn't gotten a handle on what career opportunities were available, so we were all on our own."

Bench began calling magazines to talk to test-kitchen directors, with little results. But, at the Martha Stewart Living magazine, she was transferred to deputy food editor Susan Sugarman, who agreed to an interview.

"As an intern, I worked by her side, and she taught me so much," said Bench of Sugarman. "I tested recipes that the editors developed, to make sure they worked, and assisted on photo shoots. I also did a snippet of catering for parties at some of Martha's homes, and it was quite an introduction into her world. Her homes are beautiful, they're just like they appear in the magazine."

But lately Stewart's personal life hasn't been as tidy, having recently been charged with securities fraud and the subject of the unflattering book, "Martha, Inc.," and a made-for-TV movie. Even "objective" news reporters can't resist adding snide digs about jail- cell redecorating in their coverage.

"She's an easy target, there's so much to her business, and there are a lot of things that can be pulled out and made fun of," said Bench. "I thought the movie took facts and twisted them. The reaction of the office was that we were all a bit disappointed that she was portrayed so badly."

When asked about Stewart's reaction, Bench said, "I don't know if she takes it personally, she doesn't say." But Bench feels that the magazine -- and its Weddings, Kids and Everyday Food spin-offs -- arei still very strong.

"There are mixed feelings, but for the most part people at the magazine feel pretty OK about how things will turn out," she said. "The publishing part of her business would be the last thing to lose its clout, if anything did happen. We are still launching new magazines and cookbooks, and it's very heartening."

Bench says Stewart often e-mails suggestions, such as "I understand you're working on a blueberry story, and I really like lemon and blueberry together, or I'd like to see a blueberry crumble recipe."

"You definitely try to work her suggestions in, because they're good, well-thought out and from experience," Bench said. "And they're her tastes, and that's what people want to see."

So what's she really like? "She really has a love for new ideas. She has a great memory. She's always asking questions, right down to how much is a tomato going for at the grocery store these days, and she can tell you where you can find better ones."

And why is she so idolized by fans? "She's so inspiring, she creates such beautiful things and has so many talents, and I think people want to create and develop their own talents. She elevates people's hobbies and interests. She introduces many people to a beautiful meal, or a new flavor or taste."

During her tenure at the magazine, Bench has also been introduced to many "good things."

"When Tara comes home to visit, we eat very well, she shows us new flavors and cooking methods," said her mother, Mary. "When we have food questions, we all call Tara. She's developed a very sensitve sense of taste and smell -- she can smell something cooking and know what's in it."

Bench said she loves learning about ethnic foods, fine cheeses, unusual grains, spices and so on, "but I would hope I'm not a food snob. I love trying some of the New York restaurants, they're amazing, but I like the other stuff as well."

Some of Bench's work can be seen in the summer 2002 issue of Martha Stewart Kids, where she did a primer for packing picnic lunches, recipes for ice-cream treats and easy meals that families can make together. In the Living magazine, her projects run the gamut, from fancy marshmallow treats, to roasted vegetables, to biscuit-making.