S'mores aren't just for campers

Deseret News (Salt Lake City), Jul 28, 2004 by Joyce Rosencrans Scripps Howard News Service

S'more the merrier, we say.

Graham crackers, it turns out, are not the only conveyance for golden-toasted marshmallows and warm, gooey chocolate. There are cinnamon graham crackers, Carr's wheatmeal biscuits, chocolate wafers, crushed cereal bars, pies and tarts, s'more cakes, plus different ingredients and spreads to tuck in there with the classic mallow-chocolate combo.

This campfire treat from childhood and Girl Scout troop treks has even caught the attention of fine-dining advocates.

The Epicurious Web site alone has gathered dozens of s'more recipes from Gourmet magazine, Bon Appetit and fine restaurants from coast to coast. This is the site -- epicurious.com -- for finding the lengthy directions to make homemade graham crackers and homemade marshmallows set with unflavored gelatin.

Whew! That would be a hobby, not a simple dessert to fuel childhood nostalgia.

I have made homemade graham crackers, but just once. Marshmallows are basically corn syrup set with unflavored, unsweetened gelatin, whipped and chilled until set. You make a panful, cut it in cubes and roll them in powdered sugar and a little cornstarch. I think that's way too much trouble, and that opinion was confirmed by an amusing online recipe critique from someone somewhere who'd followed the laborious instructions for homemade everything from the celebrated French Laundry restaurant in Yountville, Calif.

"They (the s'mores) came out great. I would point out, however, that the homemade marshmellows (sic) come out almost identical in flavor and texture to fresh, store-bought Kraft Jet Puff marshmellows (sic)."

Surfing the 'Net for s'mores, I discover that fine-diners at First in New York City once enjoyed making their own s'mores right at the table -- toasting marshmallows over "flaming pots of coals." Wonder what kind of powerful ventilation system that restaurant used?

Definitely skip the flaming coals indoors because a single votive candle can toast mini-marshmallows on toothpicks just fine for mini- s'mores. Give each guest his own candle for in-house s'more-making. Then there's no danger of the fire department dropping by or loved ones keeling over in your dining room from carbon monoxide poisoning or smoke inhalation.

Maybe the Girl Scouts have always had the right idea -- keeping s'mores casual and in the great outdoors. If you don't want to actually build a campfire, any grill or hibachi works just fine for rendering marshmallows golden-brown and crisp enough to make milk- chocolate squares slightly molten when smushed between two graham crackers.

Since at least 1927, when the Girl Scouts printed the recipe in their handbook, "Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts," young campers have been content to stick with basic s'mores: "Toast 2 marshmallows to a crispy, gooey state and then put them inside a graham cracker and chocolate bar sandwich. The heat of the marshmallow between the halves of chocolate bar will melt the chocolate bar a bit. Though it tastes like (you want) 'some more,' one is really enough."

No matter what troop leaders would say, here are s'more versions for one of America's favorite chocolate desserts -- thanks to Kraft, cereal companies and select cookbooks.

-- Bittersweet S'mores: For 12 dessert sandwiches, arrange 12 Carr's wheatmeal biscuits on a dozen 8-inch squares of foil. Arrange three pieces of chocolate in a flat triangle on each (using nearly 1 1/2 3-oz. Lindt bars or other fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, broken into 36 pieces). Toast 12 marshmallows over flames until golden and put one on top of each chocolate triangle. Top with remaining biscuits and wrap in foil. On a rack set 6 inches over glowing coals, heat s'mores one minute each side, or until chocolate is melted.

--Gourmet magazine, August 1996

(A variation on the bittersweet-chocolate theme is to use thin gingersnaps instead of graham crackers. From "Best Summer Weekends" by Jane Rodmell, Cottage Life Books, $29.95 hardcover.)

-- Easy Pan O' S'mores: Heat oven to 350. Break nine Honey Maid Honey Grahams in half crosswise to make 18 squares. Place nine of the squares on bottom of a 9-inch-square baking pan. Halve 36 Jet-Puffed Marshmallows. Place 36 halves on the graham squares in pan. Sprinkle evenly with chopped chocolate from six squares Baker's Semi-Sweet Baking Chocolate. Close with remaining graham squares. Arrange four marshmallow halves, cut sides down, on top of each square. Bake at 350 for nine to 11 minutes. Let sit a few minutes, then cut into 18 bars with a greased knife. Serve immediately.

--www.kraftfoods.com

-- Crowd-pleasing Peanut Butter S'mores: Preheat grill to medium- low heat. Break 15 Honey Grahams in half crosswise to make 30 squares. Halve 30 marshmallows. Chop four squares of Baker's Semi- Sweet Baking Chocolate. Arrange 15 of the graham squares in a single layer in bottom of a 9x13-inch disposable foil baking pan. Place four marshmallow halves on each square in pan. Sprinkle evenly with chopped chocolate. Spread each of remaining graham squares with a teaspoon of peanut butter ( 1/3 cup in all). Place peanut butter sides down on top of graham squares in pan to make 15 s'mores. Cover with foil. Place pan on grill and heat 4 to 6 minutes or until marshmallows are puffed and melted. Let stand 5 minutes. Cut into 15 squares with a greased knife and serve right away. Variation: Add a layer of sliced bananas before covering with peanut-butter-spread grahams.