CATCH OF THE DAY/ Whether fishing local creeks or markets, angling

0 Comments | Gazette, The (Colorado Springs), Jun 12, 2002 | by Teresa Farney

When you were a little girl, he was probably the first guy you fell for hook, line and sinker.

As a young boy casting about for a role model, you found him.

He's the guy who played catch with you, helped you with your homework and watched all your soccer games.

He's also the one who coaxed you through your fear of using live bait. A kid doesn't forget that. So what better way to celebrate Father's Day than to grab the poles, tackle grab the poles, tackle box and some bolognaand-mustard sandwiches, and head to wetter ground?

Jim Sebastiani, a Colorado Springs fishmonger and father of four boys, knows the power of father/son fishing trips.

"Fishing was a way to teach my kids about being patient, brave and humane - and to expand their food preferences," he said.

"They had to stick with fishing for at least 30 minutes before they could do other things, like throwing rocks in the water.

"I'd tell them not to be a pansy - put the worm on the hook. They'd drop the pole. I'd help them, and pretty soon they would get over being afraid of live bait.

"I'd tell them not to abuse any fish they caught. Pull the fish in gently."

Lisa Freeman, a self-proclaimed "wild game chef for hire," got hooked on fishing when her dad took her and her sister to their grandfather's ranch in Stockton, Calif.

"His day usually involved fixing our poles, helping us cast, pulling our line out of the weeds and keeping us entertained when we didn't get a bite all afternoon," said Freeman, a Linden, Calif., resident. "When we did catch fish, dad would always top the day off by preparing 'our catch' - always a proud moment in a child's life."

Once you reel in your shimmering catch, follow these fish- handling hints from the experts. These tips apply to the fish you catch in a stream or buy at the grocery store.

Keeping it fresh

Make sure the fish is fresh - it should have red gills, clear eyes and a fresh aroma.

When in the great outdoors, the best way to keep fish fresh is to keep it alive, or as cold as possible, without freezing it.

"I've seen people put their fish on stringers and drag them around the water all day," Freeman said. "The water near the top will be getting warm as the day goes on and start poaching their catch. Fish will stay fresher if they are chilled on ice as soon as they are cleaned."

The catch can be kept alive in cold water. A dead fish should be put on ice for a couple of hours before cleaning.

Cleaning and dressing

To field dress, remove the gills, entrails and kidneys, all of which spoil quickly in a dead fish. Scale fish that will be cooked with their skin on - but only if they have large scales.

When cleaning fish at home, place it on several layers of newspaper for easier cleanup. Once you've caught and cleaned "the big one," you're ready to cook.

Cooking indoors and out

"My dad said the best tasting fish is always prepared the same day as you catch it," Freeman said. "Fresh fish doesn't need a lot of other ingredients to be at its best. The freshness in the flavor will stand out on its own. You enhance the flavors by seasoning it (cleaned, heads removed and filleted) with salt - sea salt - and freshly ground pepper."

To cook the fillets, Freeman recommends searing them in 100 percent virgin olive oil.

"Cook the fish until it is firm, but not falling apart," she said. "It should not be overcooked. Usually it will take about three minutes per side, depending on the size of your fresh catch. Serve with a fresh juicy lemon wedge."

Mario Batali, a chef on the Food Network, likes his fish cooked whole.

"The first thing I like to do is, using a scaler, scrape down all the sides of the fish and clip off all the fins," he notes on the Fish 'N Tips area of the Web site foodtv.com. He does this to keep the skin intact; Batali likes to saute fish in a frying pan to get a crispy skin.

"Second of all, to get that crispy skin you must not be afraid to salt," he said. "It will add immensely to the flavor."

Freeman cooks a whole fish streamside by poaching it in aluminum foil.

"We bring along good ingredients that will complement the fish we hope to catch," she said. "Once we have a fish cleaned, left whole with a slit up the belly, season it inside and out with salt and freshly ground pepper."

Next, add a handful of fresh dill sprigs or chopped scallions, four to five thin slices of lemon and three to five orange slices. Place the fish in the center of the foil. Drizzle fish with extra virgin olive oil (about 2 tablespoons) and top with 2 tablespoons butter. Splash with a dry white wine. To cook, wrap the fish tightly in foil and place on an open campfire.

"Give it about eight to 12 minutes of cooking time," Freeman said. "Remove from the coals and set aside for serving. Be careful not to burn yourself from the steam when opening your package."

The result is a fresh entree of fish infused with the other ingredients sealed into the package. The juices will have melded with the butter to create a sauce.

"It's wonderful and extremely impressive at camp," Freeman said.