MELTING HEARTS

0 Comments | Gazette, The (Colorado Springs), Nov 5, 2004 | by TOM KARPEL THE GAZETTE

Descending into The Melting Pot's basement-level digs is like falling into a fantasy land. I mean, how many of us would take the time it requires to do fondue at home? Do you even have one of those ersatz electric pots stashed away somewhere? Most disappeared in a garage-sale black hole in the mid-1980s.

The dreamy theme is borne out by the restaurant's design mantra, which I would term shadowed elegance. The Melting Pot, part of a Tampa-Fla.-based chain, is an ideal place for romance. And for you men who equate fondue with frilly pink things, just remember: y ou get to stab stuff. Repeatedly.

At considerable risk of causing myself to look like an idiot, I nevertheless make a confession. The Melting Pot's menu confused me to no end. It wasn't just me, though -- my three dinner companions were similarly afflicted. Even after querying the waiter twice, we still weren't sure exactly what would be coming to the table.

The problem was that we had ordered two four-course dinners, the Pikes Peak ($78) and the Garden of the Gods ($74). These consist of a cheese fondue course (with vegetables and bread cubes for dipping), a salad, the main course (featuring a bouillon-based cooking sauce and various meat and seafood items), and the chocolate dessert fondue. The menu shows there are choices to be made in each of the courses, but each table has one fondue pot. So if you go with other people, you will have to agree as a group on certain, rather critical aspects of your meal.

For our first course, we chose the Cheddar Cheese Fondue, which is a lot like beer cheese soup, only with more garlic. We left not a single blessed drop of the golden elixir in the pot.

Moving on to the salads -- which, by the way, don't get dipped into anything -- there are three from which to choose: the Mushroom, the California and the Chef's. They were all good, as far as salads go, but I really think the creative minds behind The Melting Pot could come up with something a bit more on-theme for the salad course.

If you are new to fondue, you might be surprised to learn you must cook the main course yourself.

You need to choose a cooking style for that main course. We chose the Mojo, a Caribbean-derived sauce that was a bit salty but had a subtle citrus kick.

The waiter went over cooking times with us, but his instructions were lost in the ether of two bottles of wine. One of those bottles was a deep, crisp Pieropan Soave Classico ($31) that we all agreed was a perfect match for our fondue foray. The wine list is long, well- organized and includes plenty of by-the-glass options.

The cook-it-yourself list included seasoned lobster tail, teriyaki sirloin, shrimp, peppercorn pork (a favorite), chicken breast and veggies. A multitude of sauces appeared on the table as well. From buttermilk bleu cheese to cocktail, these provide additional flavor punches to your skewered morsels.

If we had sampled nothing but these entres, we might have raved. But they were overshadowed in flavor by the cheese dip and the melted, swirling pot of nirvana that came next.

And now for the moment you've all been reading for: the chocolate.

This course of the meal was, well, problematic. If you go with friends, you will politely dip the offerings (which include strawberries, cheesecake and brownie squares) in the chocolate and smile benignly over the dessert. Secretly, though, you will be wishing for a straw and a stun gun.

The Yin & Yang Chocolate Fondue (rich, smooth, half-dark and half- white chocolate) is a dessert you gladly would paralyze your friends over. The Melting Pot might enhance this sinfully delicious course by letting diners choose their dipping fodder. If you don't care for marshmallows or cheesecake, for example, you could be served all pound cake or fruit.

In the end, though, you could dip monkey brains in there -- it's that good.

That sweet finale butters you up for the bill. Expect sticker shock. Our bill for four, with two bottles of wine and tip, came to about $250.

You can go a lot cheaper. You can skip the wine, go a la carte (chicken is only $16), sub shrimp for lobster.

But this is the kind of place that makes you want to splurge, to fully experience this brand of romance and magic in the heart of downtown.

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THE MELTING POT

TOM'S APPRAISAL: I've never paid so much for the privilege of cooking my own food. But hey, it's fondue. It's fun and romantic elegance in the heart of downtown. The cheese fondue and chocolate fondue may be among the best taste sensations in town.

Address: 30-A Pikes Peak Ave. (in the basement of the Bank One building)

Phone: 385-0300

Hours: 5-10:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 5-11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 4-10 p.m. Sundays

Plastic: Yes

Checks: No

Liquor service: Full bar but no beer on tap

Smoking: None

Kiddie fare: There is a children's item on the menu.

Vegetarian options: A meatless choice is provided.

Handicapped access: Stairs to descend could be tricky.

Parking: You can scramble for limited on-street parking or park in one of the lots. There's a private bank lot across the street or a city lot on Cascade Avenue at Bijou Street.