GARDEN OF DELIGHTS

Gazette, The (Colorado Springs), Jul 29, 2005 by TOM KARPEL THE GAZETTE

MONUMENT - As I was sitting in the Herb Garden Bistro's panoramic dining room, watching a series of thunderstorms roil off the Front Range, a thought occurred to me: All restaurants should have a view like this one. It's a close-up shot of the nearby foothills (Pike's Peak is noticeably absent), with Cheyenne Mountain oozing out onto the plains in the distance, antennae bristling.

And as I wandered back to check out the bathroom (yes, it's in the job description), another thought: All restaurants should have lavatories just like this. Featuring lovely tile work, a beautifully glazed porcelain sink and a spotlessly clean demeanor, it's a haven. So Herb Garden Bistro has the intangibles down -- it's a place you just feel good being in. But what about the other reason to visit a restaurant? What about the food?

By way of general comparison, the edibles remind me of Gertrude's in Old Colorado City: Rarely will you go away unhappy, and there are apt to be a few "wows" in your experience.

One of those wows may come if you order the Spinach and Scallops appetizer for $8. Sauted just enough to wilt the spinach and warm the juicy scallops, this dish will please even finicky seafood lovers.

This being Colorado, a couple of steaks appear on the menu. The New York ($24.50) is prepared Oscar-style, with a twist: The lump crab meat is there, but it shares the steak's top with tangy gorgonzola. Nice job, Nita.

Nita, by the way, is the slight, silver-haired matron responsible for the kitchen's output. She will slide out of the hot box from time to time to check your satisfaction level. Chat her up about the food or the wine, your plans for the weekend, whatever -- she is accommodating.

And accommodating is what I found the service to be. Table Talk columnist Teresa Farney was nonplussed with the wait staff shortly after the place opened. But since then, Nita has laid down the law. It worked. The staff is as courteous as you'll find. Are they mostly young and inexperienced? Sure, but they seem to have a grasp now of what's expected from a server.

I also did not experience any of the food or wine shortages people found in the first few weeks after the Bistro's birth.

What I did find was highquality dishes, like the Reggiano- Parmigiana Shrimp Fettuccine ($23), a richly sauced plate of spinach pasta, tiger shrimp and cheese, cheese, cheese.

One of the cheapest entrees was one of the best: the Panko Stuffed Chicken ($16.50). The breast in this one is stuffed with feta cheese and spinach and baked to loveliness. Several white wines grace the uncomplicated, inexpensive wine list that would pair smoothly with that chicken and cheese dynamo. The 2003 Chateau Bianca Pinot Gris ($25) is a sparkly summer quaffing from Oregon's Willamette Valley.

And for the first time ever, I can recommend a Colorado wine that won't choke you on the way down. Although overpriced (as all Colorado wines are) at $27, the Two Rivers Reisling from out Grand Junction way is not sickly sweet like most North American reislings, and is actually pretty good -- no vinegar, I promise.

There's not much room left to talk about the gazpacho (cool vinegar twang), the desserts (serviceable, but the only standout is Nita's peaches), or the halibut (don't be afraid to order it), so I'll just say this: Dig in and enjoy the view.

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HERB GARDEN BISTRO

Tom's take: A musttry in Monument: An unforgettable Front Range vista, nice execution on the food, personal touches, and check out those bathrooms!

Address: 366 Second St, Suite D, Monument Phone: 488-0840

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays and Mondays, 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays (9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday brunch)

Plastic: Yes

Local checks: Yes

Liquor service: Wine, beer, spirits

Smoking: Nonsmoking inside; patio is fair game

Kiddie fare: Will accommodate little people

Vegetarian options: Salads and an entre are meatless

Handicapped access: One of the most wheelchair-friendly places I've seen; large alleys between tables, all one level, accessible bathrooms

Parking: Plenty of spaces in the art gallery/restaurant lot